Search results

On a bit of an impulse I bought a wooden shoulder(?) plane off the 'bay. Similar in size and shape to the very nice brass shod one Philly made, only not nearly as nice. The major difference is that mine has a skew blade, about 15 degrees I think. I have a Veritas MkII honing guide but I'm not...

How about the sort of gas struts they use for car tailgates?

It is nominal 18 mm but is actually about 18.4 mm and a housing cut with my 18 mm bit (bought for the job) is too tight. Yes I could nibble a little off the back edge the panel to get it to fit but as the cutters are blunting so quickly I am getting a fair bit of chipout on the edge of the...

It is really easy to make a magnetic bit holder for your 'Yankee' screwdriver. I made one for my little 'handyman' one by shaping the hex shaft of a spare bit holder. I chucked the bit holder in my drill press and knocked the corners off the hex shaft with a flat file. I checked the diameter...

I had a look at the versofix bits on the Wealden site but unfortunately they don't appear to do 19 mm...18 and 20 mm only. I'll have a look at some of the other sites. As an alternative I might fit the backs in with biscuits and a couple of screws, since I'm using that method for the rest of the...

I thought I'd revive this thread to have another moan about the joys of working with melamine faced chipboard. Boy, is that stuff hard on tools! I spent yesterday cutting out the parts for a tall oven housing. This is to be made up of side panels approx 2000 x 570, a top, bottom, three internal...

I've had a look on "the bay" and SIP 12" SCMS on "buy it now" offers are priced at £189 including P&P, so the Costco offer looks very tempting. My biggest problem would be where to put it.

I have found it quite difficult to use my router table as a jointer, even with independantly adjustable faces. There is a bit of a knack to applying the pressure needed to keep your stock against the fence. At the beginning you need to apply pressure on the infeed side and transfer to applying...

Mrs. N shows good taste in her designs. I usually hold on to scraps of solid wood and plywood, looks like I'll need a bin for the MFC too.

Just follow the link in Paul's post...all will be revealed. :arrow:

This topic has already been pretty well covered in this thread.

One for Tony, maybe. Can the 12" SIP scms do trenching cuts, as in for making halving joints etc?

Great work Niki, I really like the look of your cabinet. I also like the way you use those simple spacer blocks to get reproducible spacings for your dowels. I have lots of off cuts of MFC from the kitchen cabinets I am making, which I was going to throw away, not realising that it was...

I'll check the model No. on the special offer voucher tonight. If it is the same as Tony's one I might just go for it at £99 + vat. I think the offer starts some time in November at My local Costco...not sure if it's the same date in every branch.

My wife pointed the voucher out to me and asked if I was interested :lol: I am interested but I'm not sure how good these saws are. I'm guessing that a 12" SCMS is a fairly big beast and I have limited space in my workshop (single car garage) as it is full of sheets of MFC and half built kitchen...

For the size range you are looking for, a set with 3/8" and 1/4" square drive. The 3/8" for 19 mm down to 12 mm and the 1/4" for 11 mm to probably 2 mm. As Scrit says a set from Halfords will do everything you want it to do, especially if you are not using it to earn your living. Snap-On etc...

As a kid I remember my dad making brickettes out of coal dross and a little cement. I don't know what you would use as a binder for sawdust. There used to be a thing on the market for making 'logs' out of newspaper. The paper was shredded and soaked and then pressed into a block which obviously...

How about water based paints? Prime, undercoat, topcoat and finish with a water-based floor varnish in either gloss or matt depending on the effect you want. That should give a really tough finish. That is my plan for my kitchen cabinet doors which will be frame and panel in MDF. I don't know...

When using my circular saw guide, like the ones described by Dave R and WiZeR, I use a 1 m steel rule and one of these rule stops for making repeat measurements when laying out cuts. If you try and work from the factory edge (should be straight and square) it makes cutting straight, square...

I'm with Brad on this one. Make a template of 6 mm MDF, rough cut the melamine with a jigsaw and finish with a router and pattern bit. If that won't get into the tightest corners then Japanese pull saws give a very clean cut if used carefully.