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Yes I would go with Ash as most likely, at first I thought it might have been Elm, but it isn't quite irregular enough or the right colour for Elm. I agree with Pete too, I don't think it's teak, the grain and colour is wrong.

Get as heavy a one as you can too, personally I bought a second hand one which was square ended 45mm wide and 6-7mm thick hss, I ground it to a round ended negative rake (that is, it was ground with two bevels like a skew chisel) and I use that all the time for finishing off bowl interiors, it...

Well, I have made several of these and had one featured in the Woodturning Magazine of winter 2016, I am not aware of any such bans. It can be a dangerous technique if not handled properly, my own equipment is double switched and runs from a dual pole socket with lights to inidcate a live state...

Made from Sycamore and gold tracks done with High Voltage then filled with gold coloured powder, colours are Chestnut Spirit Stains and Chestnuts Acrylic Lacquer to finish. .

Sent many lacquered items with bubble wrap on them with no issues so far, but I will be sure to avoid it in future, the next one could well be the exception. I use both Shellac and rattle can lacquers.

An Awl. A nice one too.

Although you do commit to a design, the best way to avoid excess cracking is to rough turn the blanks, say to a thickness of and inch or a bit more, this helps the wood to dry more evenly and warp instead of cracking. Doesn't work with every wood or piece but the majority will be fine. I rough...

This is a common occurence, in fact few timbers will give you a clean cut all round, even with the sharpest of tools. My preferred technique is to finish the inside shaping with a negative rake scraper anyway to remover ridges etc, so I always end up with end grain tear. The solution I came up...

That's the video I was looking for Robbo, nice one!

Actually the spalting does not contain spores, nor is it particularly hazardous, the spores of any fungus are produced by the fruit body, most tree rotting fungi are of the bracket type (Turkey tail, dryads saddle, Birch polypore, beefsteak etc) all have the fruit bodies on the outer part of the...

Need to see the end grain a bit cleaner and also from side on (the grain that is) better chance when it's cut or turned, otherwise it's a bit of a guess. First image (rough bark) does look vaguely like Ash. Image 2 not sure, image 3 Looks like Beech, note the wrinkled bit of bark under the...

I have identified quite a few timbers on here over the years, with evidence for for each, but got to say, this one is completely new, the bark does look slightly like beech, but the timber (I don't think that's spalting, it's too regular) is like a toned down version of Plane which has very...

I made 12 16" rings like this, only they were solid Oak, clock frames for a merchant bank, I still have one in the workshop. I mounted them on a peice of MDF with screws, easy to remove and secure for turning. They were not very succesful though, (some interior designer specified them) they...

Great pictures Linus, the tall log really shows clearly the small horizontal blister like marks characteristic of Holly, the slice through also shows the much closer grain structure too. Thanks! :D

You mean Pink, yes it can do, but I think it may also depend on how wet the wood is as well as the the reason Tris gives, Holly to though goes through some very odd coloyur changes when wet, sort of a greyish blue green and quite pronounced. The bark though is the clearest indicator in these...

The collets also look very much like the multi chuck that craft supplies used to market.

It's Ash, holly bark has small blister like bits on it a bit like Cherry and the grain doesn't have the open vessels the way Ash does, it's a much denser tighter grained wood that Ash.

The stain drys to a slight powder as well as what penetrates the wood, some residual stain will always come off and the penetration will depend on the type of timber and the orientation (end grain obviously takes it in a lot deeper) porous woods like ash will also absorb it in the areas where...

Take a magnifier to it (a 10X loupe is best) and look at the dark rings, if they have small paler dots on them then it's a Pine, (species would be hard to specify but there is a site that has comparison images of the rings) if no dots then it's more likely a fir of some kind. I'll try and find...

Casio Waveceptor, always accurate as it sets itself to a time signal. I like mine anyway.