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I have the Makita 1/4” kit 230v and it’s very good. It was priced as a bare top and with accessories. I like the slow start and not had problems with dust collection using the bag. I make lots of small jigs and it works well. It’s also lightweight which makes it a joy to use. For 90% of time I...

If the belt is captive (between bearings) then it’s worthwhile to inspect and/or change it whilst you can. If the morsel taper is MT2 or MT3 then buying one rather than making one is a cheap/better option. Just a shame the spindle doesn’t come with an internal thread - would help in these...

All the more remarkable when you consider the finished sizes e.g. 110mm :D. Has the wood been prepared with a wedge and a thicknesser at least on the non segmented material?

Avoiding damage to the head bearings is very important. A slow turning force is preferable to a frustrated quick well intentioned blow with a hammer. Could you grind way some of the morse taper to get “purchase” on it and then use an impact driver to rotate/free it in direction of rotation (in...

Certainly the cake will disappear! The effect of movement can also be seen in ordinary PAR timber. Machining one side and then the other, is like planning one side and then the other, only to find the final shape is distorted. Using a glue block and turn both faces together helps. Take small...

A home-made doughnut chuck would also be my suggestion. If using threaded rod, I like to use tee nuts that are flush with the outer surface. The rod can be locked with a nut/washer on the underside. It avoids having an exposed head e.g. away from knuckles or a cutting tool. There is usually no...

I did try three bowl gouges - two have longer handles, two are same width and the results were all about the same. I should have mentioned that this is a segmented ring so the direction of the grain is closer to around than across like a bowl and there is some air gap at the peripheral edge...

I have seen youtube videos for larger platters and have been experimenting with larger workpieces up to 25" diameter. What sort of woodturning tool is used to get a good flat finish? I have seen mention of a negative rake scraper but I don't have one. I have experimented with a pull cut with a...

I have a Mac and I use QCAD. It's a 2D program. The same program is available for Windows and Linux. I make drawings before turning objects so for me it's sufficient to have a 2D side and top drawing. A sort of 'smart' back of an envelope drawing. https://qcad.org/en/ There is a "free"...

Sorby 67HS set is very good. I started with the Axminster “set” but I find the Sorby one much better. I did add a longer 3/8” and 1/2” bowl gouge (when on offer) as these seem to be my “go to” tools. However, the Axminster tools still have a roll to play, because the Sorby ones are more...

I’ve been looking at many of the pieces produced for inspiration - there’s a danger of just doing what I have always done and not progressing much - so your cataloguing benefits me. I don’t have the means to hollow form a vase, but after trying segmented rings/bowls, I may use this to make a...

B&Q do sell the 6mm product you want. It’s not impossibly big to collect yourself? If you wanted 100x sheets, that would be a problem - but you don’t for this project? The simple pattern is quite appealing but making it yourself would be a pain, so why not just buy it?

My "suggestion" is to get: 1. Axminster C jaws 2. Screw chuck in C jaws 3. Axminster O'Donnell 38mm jaws 4. Axminster Type M jaws 5. Longworth Style Chuck Axminster C Jaws is useful for 95% of woodturning (for me). Screw chuck for starting off bowls and creating a tenon/spigot etc. O'Donnell...

What's the "state of play" with your outrigger? Is it complete and what would you do differently if making a Mark II version? What have you used it for when overcoming existing restrictions?

Made a test ring of 24 segments to confirm my jig was OK and then a six layer 72 segment bowl. It's a bit "Lego" like, but result is better than expected. Bought some cascamite glue today, but not clear why PVA e.g. Titebond II isn't good and what creep means or how it shows. It was recommended...

Have you made a test cut and then used callipers/feeler gauge etc. to measure the cut? If it wasn’t cutting square or there was vibration, then the cut could be bigger than the thickness of the kerf suggests?

Titebond II was recommended for any segment glue ups. It goes off quite quickly so that the next layer can be added, sanded etc. Also, sanding at a slower speed to avoid putting too much heat into the joints.

First it's 3" but later described as 70mm. "Used by over 100,000 professional and discerning woodturners worldwide". I wonder how many of the 100,000 users also tried to grip a goblet as the illustration shows e.g. look at how much of the scroll isn't being used and "the safety jaws" are no...

This article has a table of sizes: https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/woodturning-chucks/?_ga=2.233846813.2010236957.1555498142-1688234302.1554158194 The real question is does it fit the lathe you have/want to have? You can get an adaptor e.g. an insert or exert. The insert allows a smaller...

Good idea, it's of course, much easier than I imagined - thanks Nev :D I will use my pillar drill as a press, with some offcuts ... Small turned wooden foot/button with a tenon to support it at the top with the chuck Small wooden cube with a cut out square section on one edge to provide the...