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I bought a set of incorrectly labeled Herring Bros carving chisels for a ridiculously cheap price on ebay and I think they are the finest looking edge tools I ever bought (I am not a carver, so it was just the bargain price that tempted me + a bit of curiosity - I pressume they do work!) . I...

yes, I am sure that is the case for the 53 - it seems there was a new version released (in the 70s? replacing the 'E' model?) that was sold with no screw cover and a redesigned face jaw ('made in England' moved to above the handle). My comment was about the 52A, which according to the...

in the only "E" model I have seen in person the cover was held on by a screw at the front and a washer was welded on the other end to fit over the far end of the screw, so assuming this is how they were all made I think the only way to tell is by looking at the inside of the front jaw. Sorry...

thanks memzey - there are two oddities there, the first and the third vice. Are you sure the screw and nut covers have not fallen off and got lost under your bench?! Seriously, you must be right that at some point the makers offered a 'square boss' version without the cover. I do think it...

Please do, and happy to be corrected :)

so far as I know it was only standard issue on the C&J Hampton made 'square boss' version (1963 onwards) - it was no doubt ejected as an unnecessary frivolity after Irvin took over.

yes I used a bit of old nail on mine too (see pic!)

Irvin (who still make a modern copy) do supply spare parts including the end bracket but I think the rods on the newer models are slightly thinner than the oldies. The bracket's only function is to keep the rods aligned and to give the screw something to brace against so I don't see why...

again, difficult to be precise although that was one of the earlier designs (eventually superseded by the more common watch spring on the inside of the front jaw) - but yes almost certainly 1920s. I hope you get it working - it is testament to the excellent manufacturing standards of this...

Hi PaulRK and welcome to the forum, the best estimate is between 1918 (date of the design patent) and the mid 1930s. Until someone turns up some more evidence this is the most precise we can say, I'm afraid. not sure what part you are referirng to when you mention the 'end bracket and pin' but...

although an entirely understandable question, the trouble is that you will get advice from a mix of fellow beginners - who each will have different preferences for learning - and very experienced people who have seen countless beginners take up the hobby only to give it up in frustration. as a...

so far as I can tell from looking at the pics of the York vices, they do not use the same quick release mechanism as Record. You turn the handle counter clockwise to release the York vices and use a trigger near the handle for Record (and copies). Woden used a similar mechanism at some point.

As a bit of a Record vice nerd I'd be the last person to try and put someone off buying a vintage one, but it is worth noting that the better models are now all well over 50 years old and some of them have had a hard life. If you do go for a vintage one then it is good advice to take a look...

that's a pity Anders. It is not uncommon to hear people have a problem with the halfnut jumping because there is dirt in the mechanism or because the "watch spring" (used in more recent models) has not be wound sufficiently tight or has been fitted incorrectly, but neither of these would apply...

if you do decide on a QR then don't forget there were plenty of good copies made last century. Keep an eye out for copies by Parkinson, Marples, Toga, Paramo, Woden, Rededa etc - not quite as common but often cheaper than the Record equivalent.

It is not possible to give a very precise date I am afraid - only that it was made between 1918 and the early 1930s.

thanks Anders - yes that is definitely the older model. I am afraid that unless someone has the same model on this forum you will have to experiment with different spring sizes. The good news is that I do not think there is much else that can go wrong: you may like to check the flat steel...

I think the length and thickness of the hard steel bit will vary slightly from cutter to cutter as it was all done by hand on the older tapered cutters - the ones I have seen all have a rather thin laminate, which I suppose was desirable as it saved on materials costs while maximising the life...

that's a lot of gin mate - don't forget it is basically pure spirts that tases of pop. Don't drink it all at once!

fair point and tongue in cheek comments aside it really is down to personal preference. Having said that it is worth pointing out that if you start off with the rear jaw installed behind the front apron it is very straight forward to adapt it in order to experiment with a sticky-out version...