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ah - I see I did not read your original article properly and we are describing different parts. I must have missed the spring loaded ball bearing when looking at the main spindle. In fact it is the main spindle I would like to remove, but I am not sure how to take off the part highlighted...

success! In the end a bit of gentle heat from a hair dryer (thanks Andy) was enough to start the small grub screw moving. I slightly marred the slot getting it started but I was able to remove it by applying firm pressure and very gradually turning the screwdriver. Thanks for all the tips so...

many thanks Claus for the clear explanation and the pictures - it is very helpful indeed. I must say that the drill seems to be very well made, and I am looking forward to getting it working again. I'll report back on progress shortly!

thank you both - I will have another go at the weekend and report back!

Hello all, I bought a rather sorry looking example of this bench drill from ebay - it was very rusted and all of the moving parts were seized and I am slowly making progress dismantling it. I got a lot of help from Rhyolith's article on the same model, which shows a partially dismantled...

I attached the patent Bod - now I look closer the diagram on the patent does seem to match the Imp's big brother... *edit - upload of pdfs does not work, here is a link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_6WZBFt_kvKOWtndUJldkE5ZWM

I've not tried it, but the way it seems to work is you grip the tube between the small plate on the fixed jaw and the raised circular part on the moving jaws (there is a groove in both parts to accommodate the pipe). I think you then form the bend by pulling from underneath. It looks like it...

the Woden Titan certainly seems to have been inspired by the Record Imp. I use my Imp frequently, and they really are very useful indeed. If you are in the UK then you can still get them for around 20-30 quid on eBay which is astonishingly good value. In case anyone is interested, here is...

I see - what about tooth size? The excerpt could also be read as "bigger teeth = fewer strokes = more accurate (ripsawing)" - is that generally true?

..having basically dismissed the "stick a hacksaw blade to the side of your saw to act as a template" technique in my previous post, I happened to notice that it is recomended in the universally admired The Essential Woodworker which just goes to show what little I know! Mr Wearing also says...

i was glad to see this excellent guide get a mention in another saw sharpening thread recently, since it inspired me to have a go at retoothing one of my backsaws. I have tried this a couple of times before - with disapoinnting results - using two techniques that Paul Sellers describes...

re. the original question, I have not got a clue, so in traditional fashion here is some largely unrelated information. My first plane was a Record no. 4 circa 2000, bought for a job round the house. Like many before me I did not know how to get it a work and it sat on a shelf for 15 years...

brilliant stuff -I had no idea these were online. The one on crosscutting is excellent if you like that kind of thing (which I do!)

i think this is a very good point Woody - 13 in 12 gives an angle of about 45.5 - I looked (in vain) to see if there was some wierd Roofing terminology that might have been handed down to the plane makers, but it seems not :D It is a shame, but I expect that there will never be a definitive...

I checked my extensive collection of wooden jacks and jointers (one of each) - I think one is hand made ( Thomas Turner jointer - end of the 19th century?) and the jack I suspect is factory made (Preston) and later - both are 47.5. ( incidentally, a tip I got from woodcentral was to check that...

if only you popped into Charles Nurse and Co (in 1908) you could have got yourself one of these: ... it only cost 18 shillings too! There is a photo of one on Patrick Leach's Blood and Gore

.. it does get a mention in the 1884 Howarth catalogue (below). Perhaps this is tenuous evidence for the term simply being used - at least at one point in time - to distinguish the pitch used for softwoods from other steeper pitches?

Good point Andy - the taper on the iron is 1 degree, so allowing for my cack-handed measuring we can call the effective pitch 50 my own theory, for which I have no evidence whatsoever, is that "cabinet pitch" referred to any pitch greater than common pitch (45 degrees).

I have a Thomas Turner smoother that is stamped "cabinet" on the back. I had assumed this was a reference to the pitch of the bed, which measures 52 degrees, but the only references I can find to this angle in books call it "York" pitch. The consensus on t'internet is that "cabinet" = 60...

not a very good picture I'm afraid , but here is an old Marples followed by a the fangled Ward & Payne Aristocrat (1960s) profile for comparison: