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Just to add to this thread...I called Bostitch and the girl on customer services didn't even recognise the model No. of the nailer. They can supply nails direct but they have a minimum order of £300 :shock: However, she was able to give me the name and phone No. of a retailer in Perth (55 miles...

Thanks Karl, I had a look at their site and they do have the nails listed but it wasn't obvious to me how to buy them. I'm so used to buying stuff online that I forget about picking up the phone and calling them to place an order.

Hi Rattie, I don't actually have it in my hands yet but but it was advertised as a "Stanley Bostitch N50". This is clearly a discontinued model but it looks like the nails that will fit are the "FN1600 series". I couldn't find anything on the Screwfix ot Tooled-UP sites...They mostly have Dewalt...

I have just bought one of these second hand (Ebay) and perhaps a bit late, I have found out that these nailers use 25 degree nail strips. I've had a bit of a look on the web (Screwfix, Axminster etc) and there don't appear to be a lot of 25 degree nails out there. I don't need big quantities...

Another alternative is to build one. I went that way, using the plan in "Woodworking with the Router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. Even if you don't build the table, the book is a goldmine of tips and techniques.

Mett, when I signed up for the ?silver? version of cutlist it did only cost about £21. I saved more than that in accurately estimating the quantity of MFC I needed for my kitchen refit. A saving of one 8' x 4' sheet covered the cost of the program. Having said that, the price has really jumped...

Having had a thumb meets tablesaw blade incident myself a couple of years ago I am quite keen on workshop safety. Maybe some sort of Sticky would be a good idea.

Don't listen Roger, keep your existing machinery. I can offer free storage in my garage and I'll even test run it periodically to make sure it stays in tip top condition :)

Have a look at Stu's Shed TV on the Aussie Woodwork Forums. Stu's recent video on tablesaws covers some of the basics of safety such as riving knives, guards, featherboards etc.

The original factory edge on your MDF, ply or whatever will be pretty straight and smooth so your first cut will be reasonably ok. Your saw will almost certainly leave a rougher edge than the original factory one and that is your reference edge for the next cut. Most of the edge guides that come...

If by guide rail you mean the saw guide that comes with the saw and rides on the edge of the material to be cut, your first cut will be ok but successive strips will get progressively worse as the cut edge deterioriates with each strip. You should make yourself a sawboard, which you will find...

When I was a lad (the thick end of 40 years ago) our next door neighbour tried to cut himself a second mouth with a chainsaw. It had kicked back and sliced his cheek open...missing his jugular by an inch or so. He staggered to our door with a towel round his head and blood gushing everywhere. He...

I bought one thinking it was a quick and easy way to trim edge banding...WRONG. I never got the bl**dy thing to work properly. I don't think it is really made to work with the thin, iron-on type of edging. Anyway mine is quietly gathering dust while my block plane and sanding block do the job it...

The cheapest option, by far, is to use your existing CS with a home made saw board. As suggested earlier cut a little oversize and trim down to final size with a router. You can make the sawboard so that one side of the fence works with your saw and the other with the router. If you don't have a...

I think it is due to the quality of Materials that Mighty Thor uses and the pixies then do a lot of fettling.

The Workmate I have is what BB calls a vintage model...definitely not rickety, though it will obviously move if you are putting a lot of effort into planing etc as it simply doesn't have the mass to resist the forces you are putting into it. That will also be true of pretty much any portable bench.

There is a simple formula for working out the length of blade you need. The measurements you need are wheel diameter and distance between wheel centres. Formula: 2 x pi x r + 2 x l where pi = 3.14 r = wheel radius l = distance between centres My old Welmac band saw has 12" dia wheels and 20"...

Are you intending to use a router mounting plate? If not you will lose an unacceptable amount from your depth of cut. The dark colour shouldn't be a problem. If you need to draw lines on the table top, as you often do for making stopped chamfers, grooves etc, you can simply stick some masking...

You don't say whether you need a bench you can take around job sites or just for workshop use...how portable does it need to be? The older dual height Workmates are still pretty good. I have one I found on a skip with one of the jaws missing. I made a replacement out of 1" ply and it is a great...

I have a Triton Workcentre and, trust me, any hand held circular saw can be used inverted in it, so I presume that any saw that will fit the mount can be used in your table. The Triton can produce accurate work if set up and used properly (ask Argee) so, if you have no other table saw, it might...