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Hi Uncle S, welcome to the forum. By coincidence, I caught the New Yankee workshop show this morning where Norm made the High Boy. The S-shaped moulding he made for the bonnet looks like it will be pretty challenging to make...good luck with the project.

Rob, Thanks for the very clear tutorial. Deceptively simple but very effective. Like all really good ideas you're left thinking...now why didn't I think of that?...And thanks all for the book/DVD advice. I feel a bookcase project coming on (with dovetails, of course).

I don't want to do Mr. C out of a book sale (it is on my wish list) but how does the caliper method work for setting out dovetails?

So that's where babies come from!! :lol: Nice work by the way.

Have a look at Alf's Groz block plane rewiew. She had to do a fair bit of fettling, which is very well described with good pictures.

Come on Alf! Deliberate goad or not, you can't let that pass :lol:

It is interesting to read several recommendations for the smaller B&Q Performance Power machines. I have the 2000W one and quite like it, but it is my only router so nothing to compare it with, and others posting on this forum in the past have slated it.

I would also recommend Hylton & Matlack's "Woodworking with the router". Lots of plans for jigs and a couple of router tables. And yes, as Alf says, protective equipment and a vacuum cleaner are absolutely essential. I have a Wicks wet 'n dry one that cost about £40, I think. I use it in...

Costco is a wholesaler so you can't just walk in off the street. They charge an annual membership fee (£26 I think) and you need to be a business/self employed or some form of professional qualification. The fee would be well worth it for the saw alone but once you get in there you are in...

Roger, I don't have the floor space to do that. I have to set up outdoors so the tressle system works better for me and the workpiece is at a convenient height.

There was some recent discussion of the SIP 12" SCMS when it was on special offer at Costco (a cash and carry wholesaler). Opinion seems to be that they are pretty good for the money, at about £200...a big beast though.

Roger, have a look at this article in Popular Woodworking. The set-up consists of two knock-down saw horses and three 8ft 2x4s. I built this a couple of years ago and have used it lots...it works really well and stores easily. I now use a couple of Triton multistands rather than the saw horses...

The usual use for these guides is for cutting sheet material down to size. This means that you are not making a deep cut, ie. the saw motor is well above fence and clamps so 4" should be plenty wide enough (mine is and I have used it lots with no problems). I would use birch ply rather than MDF...

Barry "THE CYCLONE" Burgess...sounds like a snooker player or a WWF wrestler. Looking at the pics again I do see some heavy duty dust extraction connected. Still wondering about the mitre track for us lesser mortals though.

Nice job Barry =D> . How do you find the T-track when the table is in action? I have heard (from the Hylton and Matlack book, I think) that it can get clogged with dust and that stops the mitre guage from running freely.

I got 0000 steel wool in my local Homebase. It's funny, they are almost completely useless for tools (in fact almost everything) but they stock better finishes and associated sundries than most DIY sheds around here.

I seem to remember Ian Dalziel made a CNC Milling machine a year or so ago.

The OPs question was about waterstones, if I recall. Your jig is also ideal for keeping waterstones flat. A few strokes on the abrasive before you soak the stone keeps it nice and flat. I do this every time I use my coarsest stone (600g King stone) and it has stayed flat.

An upholstry hammer for putting in brass tacks etc on leather chairs?

Here is a fairly simple method from Benchnotes, I'm sure there are lots of others.