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The question I would ask is, do you really need a slider? Unless you are planning on cutting a lot of boards wider than 150 mm, you would be better off with a non-slider...you'll get a better, more accurate saw for your money. I got a DW703 and have found it to be very accurate and consistent...

The 25T blade that came with my DW703 is ok for framing timber or firewood but not much use for trim work. I bought an Axminster Axcalibur 80T negative rake mitre saw blade. I've had it for about a year and so far, so good, though I've only put it to fairly light use.

I thought it was just The Alchemist who could turn MDF into gold :wink:

I'll add my vote for MDF if you're going to paint the doors. I've made the doors and drawer fronts for my kitchen out of standard, buff coloured MDF. Cut edges can be sealed with waterproof PVA glue (diluted 5 parts glue to one part water). I made frame and panel doors using 18 mm stock for the...

I built my split fence following Ron Fox's plan on the Wealdenwebsite. As already said, a split fence lets you adjust the aperture to the size of the bit you are using, so that you get maximum support for your workpiece. I have also used the router table as a jointer on occasion, by shimming the...

Hi Will, and welcome. As Lurker says, you will find yourself with lots of new friends, and not only because of your mobile mill. We really are quite a friendly bunch here.

I'd second the Makita as a resonably priced quality saw.

Hi Dom, I still have the Wilmac saw I bought from you...not had a lot of time to do much with it other than to get a couple of blades from Dragon. It runs pretty well but the electrics need a little work. I have bought a NVR switch but not fitted it yet. I did get as far as building a stand on...

This thread by Scrit gives a very detailed description of how to set up your sliding table for dead square cuts.

If you are going to use acrylic paints you could lacquer the toys with an acrylic varnish like Ronseal Diamondhard floor varnish. I comes in matt, satin and gloss finishes and it really is hard wearing, as you would expect from a floor varnish. I've used this combination on kitchen units and it...

I remember my Dad telling me about using explosives to split downed trees back in the 1930s. The farmer and the local quarryman were pals and he would pop round with a couple of sticks of dynamite to split trunks that were too big to handle otherwise. I think the timber was only destined for...

Rob, that is a mighty beast of a plane (I think I've seen it before but it bears repeating...great looking plane). I know a gentleman shouldn't ask but, ...how long is your woodie? :oops:

If you are doing panel work ie. making kitchen cabinets and doors then a tablesaw is the way to go IMO. With a simple homemade crosscut sled you can easily and quickly cut panels and rails and stiles (as well as assembled doors) to length and be confident that, once set up correctly, they will...

Unfortunately she didn't even get the conversion between sq km and sq miles correct. 8,000 sq km is just a tad over 3,000 square miles not 5,500. The northren hemisphere ice cap accounts for only about 10% of the world's ice and it would all need to melt to give a rise of anything near 7 metres...

OUCH!!!

It is a pretty little hammer but who in their right mind would pay £372.98 for it. As you say though, you can be a "Dick Head" for free.

I've had pretty good birch ply from B&Q but it can be a bit variable, and the sheets would be 1220 x 2440 mm or 4' x 8'. If you still want the look of the laminations on the edge then birch ply is the way to go.

I assume that this is the bit you mean. It is listed as a flush trim bit so I would expect it to trim flush, not take a bite out of your workpiece. Check both of the flutes with each of the three bearing faces to make sure they all align perfectly, if not send it back for refund or replacement.

Alaskan chainsaw mills are designed for planking tree trunks and large logs that have a substantial mass and won't move on you as you make a cut. The "mill" is just a jig that keeps the chainsaw parallel to the top of the log. In that respect they are no more dangerous than any other chainsaw...

I'll take the cover off and have a look. I forgot to add in my original post that if I switch it off manually when the tank is full and then back on again, the motor doesn't re-start until the tank pressure drops. This suggests to me that the pressure sensor is ok and maybe the switch is dodgy.