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For all the premium axes and hatches I have to play with, for a day in the woods beasting logs into firewood the ones that invariably get used most are Fiskars, X21, X25 or X27. Highly effective splitters, light and easy to swing all day, and don't need mollycodling :) Of course they look very...

There's a few small birch burrs sitting on the bench in the workshop, a couple of spare hours took care of one of them at least. Another wee kuksa / whisky noggin for sipping your favourite beverage, ideally around a campfire 🔥😊

Glue some insulation material onto the up and over door and use damp proof course material as a flexible seal to cover any gaps around the door, that will make a big difference. Adding foam/rubber mats to the floor works wonders too. Then an oil filled rad with thermostat on a low setting will...

It has a morse taper headstock :) Albeit not drilled through, just means a thread protector nut/centre ejector is used on it rather than a knock out bar. A chuck fitting is often easier though.

Not had that issue with my twin motor dx4000. It has a large cloth filter the motors sit above, and each motor has a pleated cartridge filter with paper bag filter over. Are you missing one or more of the filters maybe ?

Thanks mate, have given up trying to get logged in there.

I've tried to sign up and post the information on "the other place" as I know Rod was probably more active over there in recent times, but doesn't seem to let me log in as yet. I think some of the folk here are active on both forums so please do feel free to share the information above to the...

The family said that anybody that knew him are welcome, details of arrangements below

I'm not sure there are many left on the forum who would remember him, however Rod Bould, user name Harbo, sadly passed away recently after a brave eight year battle against cancer. Rod wasn't a prolific poster on the forum but was a lovely person with a lot of practical skills and used to...

Soaked in pure tung oil and left to cure for a few weeks, then a wipe on the inside with beeswax and mineral oil paste then polished off. Seems to work well, may need periodic rewaxing though but early examples still holding up well a year down the line.

Aha, that is indeed the tricky bit and a trade secret ;) 😂 It's a bit tedious to be honest, drilling out the centre to depth and then thinning out the walls to finished thickness with a Rolly Munhro tool and/or carbide scrapers, then of course sanding to finish off.

Have been making a few pint tumblers for bushcrafty type folk recently, they seem to be very popular for using around the campfire for beers, ciders, wine etc :) The current run of about a dozen have been made from maple and quite handily used a lot of bits of wood that were the wrong size or...

Good advice above in various posts. Out of interest what wood is it and what grit did you finish it to ? If you want a shiny finish, which I don't like personally but others do of course (!), then an alternative which is quicker and easier is a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer, light...

A quick google came up with this supplier, I haven't used them and others are available, but is an example to start with https://www.motors-direct.co.uk/electric-motors/1-ph-motors/1ph-motors-cap-start-/-cap-run.html Their data sheet gives three different footprint options, one of which should...

Have a look at motor suppliers online, ebay and elsewhere. You'll be able to find a motor that matches what you need quite easily and a lot cheaper than from a machinery manufacturer. I did this many years ago to upgrade the motor power on my startrite, made a huge difference to performance, so...

Interesting, but I have a cheap, lightweight Rexon machine as well as the bigger, heavier duty Startrite, and neither have been habitually de-tensioned over the last several decades, without any noticable detrimental effects. I don't doubt your engineering expertise but, on this topic, my own...

Any benefit over sawdust and adhesive of choice ? Sometimes a colour contrast is nice, like coffee grounds, metal powders etc, is that what you are after or is there another reason for chalk particularly ?

If you're pushing it then there is no need for the wheels to be grippy, you are providing the forwards propulsion not the wheels :) If self propelled then a bit of grip will help of course, to avoid or reduce wheel spin and aid forwards propulsion.

It may well do all of those things, but simply not necessary on a well made machine. No harm in it if you want to do it of course, but it really is not necessary, or at least hasn't been for me for the last several decades of use :)