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I've got some nice planks of walnut, courtesy of Paul Chapman, that have been stacked with spacers in my workshop for the last few years and are nicely dry :) I'll need to move them out into an unheated shed though unfortunately, unless swmbo lets me stack them under the bed which is unlikely...

Looks and sounds like the business Mark :) Cheers, Paul

:lol: What can I say, I was in a rush to get to my dinner :lol: Cheers, Paul

Be careful of the Rutlands reviews, some less than great ones I did in the past never appeared on the site ! I suspect it is not only them, but I agree that I wouldn't buy a lot of clamps without having a test purchase first, just in case ! Cheers, Paul

:lol: :lol: :lol: It's worth making up a couple or so wedges to put in the cut at the end you started, so that the weight of the cut plank doesn't pinch the saw so much as you move down the length of the log, and takes less effort to get it finished and less demand on the saw too. Cheers, Paul

I would be worried about that too with cheaper diy type electric saws, but I think a Makita was mentioned towards the start of the thread and they are pretty robust ones, miles better than the cheapies from the sheds. I used mine a couple of months ago for a major firewood session as it was...

Like the wheels idea ! :) Cheers, Paul

Sorry to hear that Peter :( Glad that you at least won't have to give up completely though. Cheers, Paul

Really enjoyed that :) Thanks for posting it. Cheers, Paul

Mine doesn't secure both ends of the saw, only one, which is all that's needed with a short to medium length bar. Also think it's far from being a "lash up", quite thoughtfully designed if you ask me :) Cheers, Paul

It would be used the same way I use my alaskan mill, right hand on the top handle, left hand on the main handle and throttle, using mainly the right hand to push the saw into the wood. In the unlikely event a securing bolt failed (how could it ?), the saw wouldn't go anywhere as you're still...

Think you've misunderstood the fundamentals Stu ! :) The log stays static and the saw runs along the rail. You still use the top handle to help push the saw into the wood so in the event of kickback (unlikely in this situation) would still operate the chain brake, and the operator is not...

The design should work okay I think. I have a commercially made small alaskan mill attachment for my chainsaws and they are really quite simple, just metal tube framework and a bracket or two for adjustment, nothing much to them really, just act as a guide to run on a flat surface, so no magic...

Don't really maintain mine Tony, don't seem to need much attention really ! Having said that, a squirt of dry ptfe spray on the scroll mechanism bits and maybe the rest occasionally wouldn't do any harm, and a blow off with an airline occasionally ? Cheers, Paul

You haven't said where it is unless I've missed anything ? Cheers, Paul

Do you want a hand with some of that ? :) Cheers, Paul

Not really. The wheel diameter on the tormek changes with use and therefore the jig supporting bar needs to be adjusted to the correct distance from the wheel if the jigs being used are to be at the same settings consistently. On the sorby of course the bar is a fixed distance from the abrasive...

Yes, you are :) Cheers, Paul

Exactly what I do too, on bowls as well, quick and easy and very efficient :) Cheers, Paul

Still waiting for the finished pics though Tony :) Cheers, Paul