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Hi Mike, very good of you to post it up here, if I wasn't inbetween workshops at the moment and lacking storage space I'd be over like a shot ! Better not to cut it to short lengths like that, end splits and cracking usually penetrate a good few inches in from either end and on a one foot...

And try a steeper angle on the bevels perhaps :wink:

You need a Silky Katanaboy 650 folding japanese handsaw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KryxktLOqE Hugely more effecient than a traditional bow saw, but more expensive too :) Cheers, Paul

That's the fault of the turner not the wood ! As a general approach, the fancier, busier, more interesting the wood the simpler the turned form should be to show it to best advantage, and vice versa. My approach anyway :D

Might be cherry looking at the bits of bark I can see underneath the fungi, but not certain. Looks very nice in any event :) Cheers, Paul

This way round I reckon :wink:

Same as Nev above, great abrasive, good prices and Richard is a top bloke too ! :) I confess that I do use a wad punch and hammer to cut out the circles, but not at all necessary, cutting squares with scissors is what most sensible folk would do ! Cheers, Paul

Very much the case Dennis ! The blades I use for my safety razors cost me less than nine pence each and give five good shaves, so less than two pence per shave (leaving aside the cream/soap etc and the initial price of the razor itself). Don't know the prices of the various cartridge types...

Yep, me too, a few of the razors to choose from depending on mood, they all perform slightly differently, the favourite is probably the Gillette Farboy from 1957, a Futur, and a Megress. I've narrowed down the blades after extensive testing to Shark and Personna Platinum that suit my skin and...

I usually dilute by about a quarter to a third, but you could go up to half and half with the cellulose thinners if you wanted. You need to work fast with it, wiping or brushing it on and then immediately wiping off the excess. The idea is to leave the sealer in the pores of the wood, using two...

So was I mark ! A trick of the light perhaps, thought the pale streaks were caused by the end seal. Oak would be my guess from the bark, but not 100% certain :) Cheers, Paul

Nothing like birch, possibly oak or even walnut, would be easier to tell without the end seal on ! :) Cheers, Paul

I had the cl3 version for a few years, some time ago, and beefed up the stand by bolting 3/4" ply onto the back and ends to stiffen it, and a making a thick shelf for the mid rails and loading with bags of sand, and it made a noticeable difference when turning larger out of balance blanks...

Hahaha, will take you up on that Rob, perhaps even break out the alaskan mill and saw and bring that over like I was supposed to do a long time ago :oops: !!! Cheers, Paul

Still in suspension Rob, blimmin builders !!! :) They were supposed to be finished last July but didn't actually start till November ! Now nearly finished though, only a few weeks to go. Once they are done we can look at selling up and go in search of a new workshop, oops, I mean a new house...

Hi Rob, Are the pics before or after the tidy up ? !!! :wink: :lol: I'm only jealous :mrgreen: Cheers, Paul

You could also use a Spanish Windlass approach, or even rachet straps, if you took care to keep the workpieces flat while tightening them up. Cheers, Paul

Could use some folding wedges and bench stops or similar. Cheers, Paul

I've had some lovely pieces from willow Rob, I wouldn't discount it entirely. A lot cracked and split and wasn't suitable, but a few large bowl blanks came out beautifully. Was a little tricky to turn large with thin walls as the wood would flex more than most so a light touch towards the end...

A while back I had a need for a replacement blade for my small rexon bandsaw that I keep fitted with a narrow blade for tight curves, and as I was okay for blades for the bigger bandsaw I didn't want to put such a small order in to tuffsaws and pay p&p and wait for a few days, so I popped down...