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Would you look at that....

I flip the work piece and reference the same edge (which is square). Once both ends have been made square I would plane the 2nd edge parallel.

When installing the fence I referenced the stock Of the square on the highlighted edge. I may actually upload a video of me using the shooting board tonight so everyone can see maybe what is happening.

The 5¹/² I used is ever so slightly out of square. So I switched to my 4 which is square and still the same issue.

Also when shooting the sound of the plane the sound is along the entire edge as the plane is moving. So it's not missing the last once or so up against the fence.

Yes I forgot to mention it, tried it on some 1" pine still out of square.

Thank you for the reply Adam. The rebate is already formed and I'm mindful of tipping the plane over. Only taking extremely light passes to avoid exerting too much force and tipping the plane.

I don't know what I'm missing here so I've come for help as I'm now stumped. I've got a home made shooting board and it's been fine since I've made it a year ago, however now it's creating 90 ever so slightly out maybe 0.5-1mm out over the workpiece which is about 5"wide. No big deal I thought...

This sounds like exactly what I need, I'll have a look for it. Thank you.

That sounds great I'm in need of some information on design. Thank you.

Thank you for posting this but I'm looking for something with more joinery and refined to learn new skills such as angled mortice and tenons and carving the seat for example. Essentially an adult chair scaled down in size.

Thank you this looks interesting. I was looking for something more traditional but this seems like a viable option.

Hello, I'm looking to make a small chair for my daughter (3 yrs old). I'm looking for resources, plans etc for the rake/angles and joinery construction. Style is similar to dining chair (but scaled down). Straight back, flat components that kind of thing. Not looking for anything for anything...

Thank you all for the replies the video helped a lot, also and thinking about the way force is applied to the board. I may add some planing stops. Such as the Veritas or two flush morticed stops (bottom left of the bench and top). The top is quite soft and one day I may replace it but for all...

Sorry for the delay folks. I've attached some pictures. So I'm using clamps at the end to secure a batten, then using the holdfast with the doesfoot as I'm pushing traversing with the plane it pops out. I've tried leather under the doesfoot too. Like mentioned above if used for chopping etc the...

This is the thing I'm using the doesfoot and the act of planing shifts it and pops the foot out.

Rubbed with 80g and they hold better still not holding enough to withstand the force of planing across a board.

Hole is 19mm, holdfast bar is about 17.5mm. I knew about the sand paper but the bars felt rough to the touch so thought they wouldn't need it (should of tried it anyway). didn't know about only going around the shafts though and not up and down.

Also hope this is in the right sub forum.

Hello, I've got a pair of Simon James holdfasts and they don't really hold too well and I'm trying to troubleshoot them or my bench. When I first got them they held alright with a good wack but I was still able move the piece so can't use then to hold down battens when surfacing a board...