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  1. woodbloke

    do you sand after you scrape?

    Easy enough to do it that way and in fact that's the way that's the way I sharpen a card scraper...but at the beginning of the clip he uses 280g sandpaper after the card scraper and then says it's ready for a finish...which is wot I said in the first place! - Rob
  2. woodbloke

    Hand Stitched Rasps

    Far, far too spendy. i've tried the new Continental range from WH (and also a few of the premium French ones)...the same performance at a fraction of the cost. It's a bit of a 'no brainer' really - Rob
  3. woodbloke

    Musings of a newbie.

    +1...absolutely. Making something is as much an intellectual process as a practical one. Stop and really think through the processes involved - Rob
  4. woodbloke

    do you sand after you scrape?

    If you need thumb protectors, you may be scraping too hard. I use a card scraper, or LN scraper plane on areas where a smoother hasn't quite sorted it out, but it's usually only a very light pass. Maple (if the grain isn't curly) shouldn't need much scraping anyway - Rob
  5. woodbloke

    Scammers

    I had something similar recently Pete. I just kept on answering 'yes' to all their questions...nothing else, just 'yes' in various tones of voice. After about 10 wasted minutes they got the picture and rang off - Rob
  6. woodbloke

    Workshop workbench

    Sounds like a good plan Karl :wink: Without getting into the egg sucking dept, I've just re-surfaced my bench and I then waxed it so that any glue/crud/cr*p just lifts of with the touch of an old cabinet scraper. The hardboard covered assembly bench is also waxed which makes cleaning up after...
  7. woodbloke

    do you sand after you scrape?

    Yep...in my experience scraping will produce a good, blemish free surface (no torn grain f'rinstance) but not one that's suitable for a polish. Depending on the timber, a light pass over with 240grit followed by 320 will bring the surface to one where a finish can be applied - Rob
  8. woodbloke

    another rare, old, collectable, vintage chisel!

    I was referring to the basic kit that the college asked students to supply...most just threw the tools into the toolbox but if they were correctly racked out inside, then there was a lot more room for other stuff, which I over time added, but yes, in most cases tools are acquired over a period...
  9. woodbloke

    another rare, old, collectable, vintage chisel!

    Not having a pop at you at all Jim because we agree about more things than we disagree on (if that makes sense) but a decent quality 25mm Japanese chisel, say from CHT will set you back £72.90 which is a lot of wonga...the one's that Matt used to sell were equally as good, but a lot less, I...
  10. woodbloke

    another rare, old, collectable, vintage chisel!

    And there you have it...agreed. But if you wanted to assemble a basic, decent set of new hand tools (as I had to when starting college in the 70's and the best then was appalling by today's standards) then you certainly don't need a vast amount...way less that a 100. My tools for Shoreditch...
  11. woodbloke

    Anyone into latex?

    Sounds familiar Bob...anyone not been there :lol: - Rob
  12. woodbloke

    Workshop workbench

    After it's been lipped, I'd put on a sheet of sacrificial exterior grade hardboard, stuck down with strips of strong d/s carpet tape or similar. The exterior grade is far superior to the fluffy interior stuff and much under rated IMO...bearing cut with a router once it's stuck down - Rob
  13. woodbloke

    another rare, old, collectable, vintage chisel!

    Agreed. As others have said, there was an awful lot of 'tat' made in the olden days as well which hasn't survived...so maybe it's just the better stuff that seems to surface . There's plenty of good stuff made now as well (not so during the 70's etc) which to me is infinitely preferable to...
  14. woodbloke

    Two Lawyers Saws

    The late Alan Peters suffered from something similar and couldn't use exotics, which was the reason he became completely fixated with dust extraction in his 'shop. If you've developed an allergy to the stuff...stay well away, or use it at your peril - Rob
  15. woodbloke

    Hand Plane Handles

    Easy enough to do. These ones on this No4: ...are in English Walnut. A lathe helps though :-" - Rob
  16. woodbloke

    You guys don't seem that excited...

    +2...you forgot the Spice Girls - Rob
  17. woodbloke

    quality day of sport

    +1...and then some - Rob
  18. woodbloke

    Dieter Schmid at fine tools

    A bit late to this one :oops: but an excellent firm to deal with...no probs what so ever - Rob
  19. woodbloke

    Sawing straight

    Agree, this technique works quite well. How you stand is everything when using a saw (of any sort) and it's best if someone else looks at how you're sawing...it's then very easy to correct, but very hard when you try and do it yourself - Rob
  20. woodbloke

    ULMIA Schlichthobel

    You called Jim? Yes indeed, they are loverly if you can get hold of nice one. I bought this little used Ulmia Reform: ...with an adjustable mouth and lignum sole a few years ago from Penny Farthing Tools, around a tenner if memory serves. I stripped it down to it's component parts...
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