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Gave up that game a looooong time ago. Agree, it's great stuff, but health wise, a dangerous and slippery slope. I got off it when the penny dropped - Rob

Didn't see that...'Silent Witness' night...and again tonight - Rob

Yes, there's obviously a 'cheat' but it involves quite a complicated panto set up, whereas if you learn to do it by hand, the results are far better and all you need is about three very sharp chisels...and a lot of patience :mrgreen: - Rob

This sort of stuff (as far as I'm aware) can't be done with a router...it's a strictly hand tool thing and done with chisels (no gouges or carving tools). Getting into the corners for the serifs needs to be done cleanly and precisely and a router cutter simply won't do the job. The reason why...

For many applications, probably most IMO, the tenon should be 'vertical', or in-line with the rail, which means that the shoulder line should be cut at right angles all the way round with the square on either face edge or side (for the lines to meet up). If the tenon isn't 'vertical' it means...

Thanks for the nice words about the box chaps, it's appreciated. Seems to be about an even split for the ebony band and looking at it again, it does seem a little on the heavy side and could do with some other feature to give it a bit of balance. However, I'm not going to do anything with this...

:lol: :lol: - Rob

I've always cut the shoulder lines using a chisel...the wider the better and as others have said, make sure that the line has been well marked with a knife. Provided that the bench is level in both planes (which mine is) you can cramp the wood down, place the chisel in the line (having first...

Nice box James...you need to start looking at dad's stash of Cuban Mahogany for the next one :wink: :lol: - Rob

An old Scandvik similar to your one is my most valuable tool...left to me by my grandad. I still use it for oddsn'ends around the 'shop, but haven't altered the teeth setting. It did need a bit of TLC though :oops: after I'd sawn through my big Japanese maple root ball (complete with grit...

Probably correct Jim, if you're after a satin type of finish which most folks seem to like...I don't, so that's why I go for the matt Osmo-PolyX which can then be buffed to a slight lustre with the application of a little decent wax over the top. If you haven't tied the matt version, it might...

This is a pretty old pic: ...of my chisels and gouges from a couple of years ago, but the current stuff is still stored in the same way. It's basically the same as Rog's but with two important differences, firstly there's a piece of clear, thin plastic in front which extends well below the...

And thirded. One of the better ones - Rob

Well I have to say that here in Salisbury the bin boys are great. If I leave the grey landfill wheelie bin chocablock with wood offcuts, sawdust and shavings (bagged up) it just goes straight into the back of the wagon, they don't even lift the lid to have a look inside. The other day, I...

I'm with Rog here, I just can't work in an untidy space, my 'shop has to be pristine before I do anything in it. As a general rule, when there's enough shavings and cr@p on the floor to fill a Tesco's blue stripe bag or two, then it's time for a tidy up, but in any case, I always clean the...

...and there's also the new LV low angle plane as well which is similar - Rob

I agree about the timber store John. Trying to keep a decent quantity of wood in the 'shop itself is a bit of a 'mare, I can do it in mine as you'll remember, but I can't store a lot. The problem then becomes if you keep it outside under cover (out of the sun and rain) it'll then settle down...

I did see on the Axminster site that LN offer a No1 which I didn't realise, but at nearly £200 it's very probably too much for an 8yo, who may not appreciate it...could always be added to the collection though? - Rob

Meant in jest Chris, and no offence whatsoever intended. My bench gets really cluttered at times which irritates the hell out of me, but I keep a pot of pencils in the bench well with long strips of wood (offcuts) in it...I put the planes down on these. I also have the 'Tool Wall' directly...

Same here...my blades are always honed flat (difficult to do anything else with a Kell guide) I've never had any sort of problem in planing an edge and do it in the same way as it Chris's clip...'cept I don't put the plane sole down on the bench :-P :lol: - Rob