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Glad you like it...more to come this weekend about 'Creature Comforts' :wink: - Rob

Sorry, not my sort of stuff...I found it appalling - Rob

I understand Mark. Whichever way you slice it (literally! :lol: ) that rail is going to be weaker, simply because you've got to cut two big holes in it for the drawer fronts. If you split the front rail as I suggest, the other option is to incorporate some hefty steel work into the subsequent...

I think you're going to need to be cunning here Mark as what she's asking for are 'invisible' drawers or ones where the fronts can barely be seen, which means that the grain is going to have to line up. There is a way to do it and I'll try and explain, so bear with me. Take the long side rail...

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Interesting...thanks for that Rod - Rob

Wish you were closer to me and I had a van or trailer :( - Rob

Looks a nice piece of work...any particular reason why the panels are orientated in different directions? - Rob

I can see that we differ on this, but as I said, I was there and I did ask the man :wink: Best to leave it there I fancy - Rob

:mrgreen: :D :D :mrgreen: (hammer) - Rob

...or even £4.95 here for a litre! Have to agree though, it's fantastic stuff and well worth getting hold of if you can find it. For the price, it's infinitely better that TBII or III which is what I used to use - Rob

I'll have the Jet wide sander thingie and the bobbin sander. Hang on though #-o #-o ...then I'd have the same problem as you :mrgreen: - Rob

Well, that may be the case, but I was there and asked the question(s). If you look on that Blog entry, there's a pic of me holding a rough, unfinished, but curved blade in the forge area. If you then compare that pic to the ones of the final blades at the end, you'll see that they're almost...

Yes, that's true, it does add a little, but only a very small amount, to the shape of the finished blade. The popular myth and misconception is that the curve is produced only by the application of the hamon slurry and subsequent final heat treatment in the forge...this is not the case. The...

Having just returned from Japan and having spent a day with a professional swordsmith (where the final sword will set you back a cool £30K) it takes two weeks to forge the blade and the essential shape is produced in the forge, not by the last final heating. The particular maker I was with is...

'Tapping out' should only be done on the softer iron section of the laminate, never on the much harder cutting steel...and you need to know what you're doing! To increase the distance from the edge to the to the 'ura' (the concave bit) just flatten the back some more using a coarser grade of...

I was advised by Applecare not to turn the router off, leave it on all the time - Rob

+1...spot on Richard. I'm currently making some picture frames from English Walnut and after cleaning up with a very finely set BU smoother, a quick going over with some 240g is all that's needed. Wipe the edges with a bit of worn stuff and they're ready for their first coat of oil...sorted - Rob

K9 help, assistance or hindrance p'raps?...or pre-Alfie? - Rob

John...you don't have to tell me and my imagination doesn't even have to work overtime! :lol: :lol: :lol: - Rob