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Yep, it does stick to glass quite well :shock: but it's easy to get off. Use white spirit and a nylon scourer, then wash the glass with hot water and dry. Finally clean and polish with glass cleaner just before the new stuff is rolled on. Cleaning off the old goo takes me less than ten...

Current set up is 30,15, 5 & 1 micron, but it works well enough without the 15. For sharpening the single bevel on my Jap chisels, I've got a separate piece of glass with 60 and 40micron, one on each side. To keep it off the sharpening table, I use those rectangular sticky pads that glaziers...

Yebut E, as I understand stuff, only 6% of that 10p is proper 'matter', the other 94% is 'dark matter' etc etc. The Higgs particle will, or ought in the future, to be able to tell us where the rest of it is lurking down the sofa :lol: - Rob

Same as Rog and others. Provided the glass (or granite) that you stick it to is free from dust and other contaminants, it's dead easy. The 60 and 100 micron 3M grades aren't self adhesive in which case I just use a couple of strips of ds tape - Rob

Difficult with that buggy though, 'specially towing a trailer :lol: - Rob

Abslolutely...well said Stevie and Rog - Rob

I agree with Paul, mounting the steel bar as you have done means that it's going to be very difficult to flex under load and should really stiffen up that front rail - Rob

I was doing a lot of veneering at the time and used pretty much all of it :shock: but I did keep it in the house above a radiator, so it never went 'off.' Buying a small bottle obviously means that you always [-o< get fresh glue, but it's also the most expensive way to buy it - Rob

Same here and I agree with you, it was my default glue, but....Everbuild D4 is as good and because it's not imported from the good old USofA, it's a lot, lot cheaper. The last lot of TBIII I bought when it was on offer at Ax (that's some time ago) and the biggest bottle cost me around £25 if...

Steve is correct, but the other option is to grind your own from HSS jobbers drill bits. I've never bought any lipn'spur bits but have always made my own. You'll need a square edged grinding wheel, a decent overhead light and a steady hand. I can grind mind down to about 4mm but below that...

It' a close call. The box is fairly wide and the walnut is very well conditioned, it's also known to be extremely stable once it is fully stabilised...one of the reasons it's used for top-endy shotgun stocks I believe. However, given the recent run of seasonal summer weather :roll: and then...

Definitely beech...if you want something for exterior use, your best bet is something like iroko. Teak is also good but you'll need to see Bob Diamond (or one of his cronies) for a 2nd mortgage :mrgreen: - Rob

...and here. But more importantly, where the hell did all the years go?..and how come they went by so fast? - Rob

Another 'aye' here Rog, should be an interesting one - Rob

Probably the glass headed one E (hammer) - Rob

Same here Pete for lots of them...only mildly amusing is about all I could muster - Rob

...and keep a couple of silica gel sachets in each container as well. I also keep the bulk of it in the airing cupboard where it's always nice and toasty - Rob

I've used the wax crayons before now. I generally force the stuff in cold using an old marking knife, but Douglas makes some useful points. I've also gone for the 'sliver' technique which is much more fiddly but almost invisible if the wood is cut and inserted correctly. Better though, not to...

Exactly...Steve sums it up in two sentences. A device clearly aimed at the 'murrican market where their altitudes to elfn'safety seem a lot more cavalier than this side of the big wet - Rob

The No9 is bevel up and not skewed, but works well enough on a shooting board. I used to have one :mrgreen: The LN51 has twice the mass (iIrc) of the No9, a skewed blade and is much better...I have one of those now :mrgreen: :mrgreen: - Rob