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thanks- the Facebook one looks great but I'm down in Somerset so bit too far to travel, I'm in contact with Paddy about his but its still a fair way to travel- if anyone has one in the West Country and looking to sell would love to hear from you

Hi all if anyone is selling a WoodRat I’m interested in buying one, thanks

Happy days, swapping the wheels improved things enough that if the top blade runs toward the front of the wheel the bottom one runs fairly central and it all works well enough, but less tension than I had been applying also seems to help Checking for co planar reveals that the top wheel should...

Thanks for the suggestions,did wonder about checking coplanar with a straight edge but can’t place anything across because of the cabinet, guess I need to get a bit more creative and find a way, i hadn’t thought of swapping the wheels over that could be an option. like the idea of hardwood...

Hi, I’ve had a Startrite 352 for a while and have been very happy with it but after snapping a couple of blades recently so I went back to the beginning following Alex Snodgrass setup tutorial, removed table and guides etc. to try and sort the issue before the next scary big bang. With all...

Hi, I’d like to buy it if its still available

hi is it still for sale or gone now?

you might be right, I’d been taught to drill holes to stop splitting, I don’t always bother and never had it split either way so maybe there’s no sense in doing it….

i thought the relief hole is to stop the tenon possible splitting as the wedge drives into the end grain, makes sense to me whether its worth doing depends on the application though i guess

Hi sent you a pm (i hope) I"m interested in these if they're still available

Festool mfs400 or mfs700 - work great but it's not a cheap solution...

+1 on where the studs are will decide, sagulator is good for checking any likely issues with sagging: The Sagulator – WoodBin

Hi, interested too if its still available

Thanks all for the advice, I’ll beef up the width of the rails and stiles and definitely m&t with horns too as described, much appreciated

thanks all for the replies and info so far, good stuff. Yes they want DG as they already have elsewhere on it And they want one glazing unit per door- no lock rail. do you think just bottom and top rail is going to be asking too much of larch or cedar?

It’ll have 18mm toughened double glazing, doors will be hinged. rails will be tenoned into the stiles, it’s for a summer house/shed. 12mm square cedar stops on outside to match other units and inside I was thinking of stops again rather than rebating the frame but inside stops can be rebated so...

Hi all, I’m looking for guidance on minimum timber thickness for glazed doors, they’ll be 720 x1880 with 4” top rail and stiles and a 8” bottom rail, probably going to build in larch or cedar, maybe oak. Is there a resource anywhere which gives minimum specs for all this or is it just a case...