Search results

BB, I have not really paid this blogger much heed, particularly after seeing a picture of his shop a few years back on PWW (quite elaborate!). I've had my LN #62 almost a decade now and it was a Christmas present from my wife. I distinctly remember asking for it, having given in to the...

I have a LN #62 jack and it is rarely used. For some reason, I find myself reaching for a #7 and then smoother. I got a hankering to dig out the old 5-1/2 I have buried away and give it a try, with my thinking being that I like more weight in a plane than the #62 has, hence the jointer. The...

Oh boy, the Thomas Flinn/Pax 1776 saws are getting mentioned on a forum! Next thing you know, they'll be mentioned in the American woodworking magazines and by some talking heads, with prices tripling and otherwise going through the roof!

In my case, LN never said what the problem was, but that they had to re-sharpen the saw. Can't remember which American sawsmith commented on potential causes, including mis-shaped tooth profiles, poor setting, etc. When I called LN, they said the saw was unconditionally guaranteed, even if I...

My reply is vastly different and is suggesting an issue with the saw. Some background: I accumulate old tools, and I hate to see miter saws end on the junk heap, since they seem to be available always on the cheap, but mostly missing saws. Net effect is I have at least 16 old Millers Falls...

Is there anything new that is truly new or just refinements of methods of old (for example, pick up one of Wearing's books on woodworking gadgets, etc.). For me, this is where Paul Sellers fits in: he has realized his earnings are far easier to instruct/pass on his decades of knowledge rather...

Sometimes I think we'd all be better off not paying attention to the internet or woodworking magazines, etc. I know in my past (when I worked wood for a living) it was get the job done, without worrying about whether or not a saw was taperground (or even if it was hand-sharpened by the latest...

Just examined my LV carcass saw, with molded spine. No evidence of flash from the spine to the saw plate - so a very clean, excellent job, if plate was molded around spine. This is a question best asked of LV, however, to mold around the saw plate, the material would have to be heated...

More than a few of the boutique makers here in the states hold the saw plate in with epoxy. I know my Gramercy DT saw has a folded spine, but LN saws use a milled spine with epoxy. One of the reasons I chose the Thomas Flinn PAX tenon saw was because of the traditional folded back. I bought...

I would suspect that this issue would be the same for any saw with the plate epoxied into the spine (I believe LN saws have the spine milled, with the plate fixed by epoxy for one). I would think that heat applied to only a portion may make it worse, so the best course of action (short of...

What is interesting is that this is a discussion of actually working wood! What works for one may not work (as easily) for another. Many of us here are not professionals and many of us here don't even have the time to learn to be accomplished hobbyists. So (in my case) it comes down to what...

To respond to your first paragraph, probably not very much, but as far as spending your cash, whether hard earned or not, it is an individual's own decision. I could go sit at a bar/pub every afternoon/evening, but I don't. My vices are many, ranging from accumulations of books, Military &...

During the last "LV free shipping" event, I ordered a PM-V11 blade for my Bailey #7 and for my 60-1/2 (I've got expendable cash, so it was a toss up between splurging on my hobbyist toys, trying the new Knobs Creek rye, or leaving a bit more for the kids to argue about). I did not upgrade any...

Nice to see a vendor do this and as already mentioned, it would be nice to see some dealers doing this in the states. I certainly would like to try some of the brands constantly bashed over here, such as Woodriver, the new Stanley or the Kunz Premium line.

I would suggest finding a local (UK) machine shop that uses CNC equipment. Find out what they do with the worn out carbide cutter tips. They may be too dull for motorized metal working, but will be perfectly to use for fabricating a metal scraper.

If you are set on using carbide, might I suggest using a carbide insert from a CN machine tool? They come in all sorts of shapes and all you would have to do is make a holder out of a piece of mild steel, with the hardest part of that process drill & tapping the hole to hold the insert. With...

Will be watching with much interest! Thanks for taking on this job, as well as documenting the process - will give some of us more inspiration to take on "first glance" basket cases!

Beautiful work! Have you ever considered impregnating wood with resin to offer protection against an unthinkable dropping of the saw? I would hate to see a handle as pretty as that, cracked, and infused resin may offer some insurance against a break.

I had a Stanley #90 ( not quite a should plane!) that was similar: sides and sole were flat, co-planar and square, but the blade bed was machined off nearly 5 degrees! A machinist made the sole co-planar to the bed and then square the sides to the sole.

Pretty much an exercise in futility, unless you do it in a powered lathe, with progressively finer grades of diamond compound, with proper breathing apparatus (grinding carbide is toxic) and a great deal of patience! In my manufacturing plant maybe a half dozen years ago, the type of tooling we...