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Quite a few cheaper than $40 (and nice) Bailey's at today's PATINA gathering. Many 4's, fewer 5's, lot's of Bedrocks, mthough it wasn't planes I was after. Many handaws dirt cheap. What was missing? Did not see a single natural stone! David, you're going to have to make the trip to Damascus...

How fine is the resulting surface Derek? Finish ready? What size is your grinder? I may have to try one of the CBN wheels. Thanks, T.Z.

I have a Stewmac and it does work ncely.....but I find I can do as well with a thicker, (stiff) conventionally availabe rectangular scraper. Why? Probably a mental block when I sharpen the thicker Stewmac on my grinder. Years before I bought the Stewmac, I made (and heat treated) an A2...

Can't remember which book it was, maybe The one by Garret Hack, or possibly by our own David Charlesworth, but I remember discussuin on the "hump" and some slight bending of the chipbreaker to make sure it "mates" with the blade correctly. I do recall David's instructions on working the "toe"...

Boy would that block plane look sweet Paul, if you would just paint that black, a nice "British Racing Green"! If Cliftons were available in 2000, then that makes my #3 pretty early (2001 or 2002 or somewhere in there). My favorite smoother, also. What makes it my favorite? The looks...

Stewie, Beautiful job on the Disston, and absolute superb work on the shaves! T.Z.

Prices may be high at that auction site, but at "in person" sales, such as the dealer sale before Brown Auctions, or Patina tailgating, prices are more reasonable. Having a few Berg and other Eskiltuna made chisels, the steel is good, but no better than many other more reasonably priced vintage...

I'm going to have to search through my "opportunity box" of egg beaters and see if I got one like that. I like the one I referred to and AndyT pictured-easy to dial in and also smooth.

That was also the one I was referring to.

Search for website "Syndnas Sloop" as I believe George has an article or two describing the guide wheel (believe he calls it "the little railroad wheel" or something similar. He sells tools on that site, and if he doesn't have an article posted on the drill, email him and he can guide you to...

Thanks BugBear for the cutter info, as I have one of their other scratch stocks, but really like the looks of this one (plus I accumulate Preston tools and even though this is a copy, it would just look right with the rest of my stuff).

I have an old Stanley like that, for which blades are not made any more. It is simple to take a modern Stanley blade, lay it into the retaining half of the knife, and you'll see the tab that is easily ground off with a Dremel style tool. There is also another Stanley similar in appearance that...

If I remember correctly, the best description of fitting the cap iron to the blade, was done by our own, Mr. David Charlesworth, in one of his fine books. What made his books so valuable, were the pictures shown at the most opportune time, of the preparation task. The method demonstrated...

Thanks C.C.! Maybe now, with your explanation, there may be someone other than me, in the great state of Pennsylvania (USA) that has/uses the "Stay-Set" cap iron (as well as the Clifton blade, which I like better than most irons, though the Ray Isles O1 is also pretty sweet). What I have a...

Several comments: I bought my Clifton #3 dirt cheap during that period of time when the US tool bloggers were slamming Clifton for so-called issues, using the justification that "if you're paying for a premium plane, it should arrive ready to work". Mine did and I can't remember the issues...

I have two "Stay Sets" on bench planes and like them considerably. I prepare the lead edge in the method David Charlesworth suggested in his books: flattening for tight fit at the extreme lead edge, and polishing the top. Where the real advantage to the two piece cap iron is, is for those...

I've pretty much migrated to Spyderco stones-medium, fine & ultrafine. Been using them for over a year now, but what is sealing the deal, is George Wilson's tip of giving them a spritz of water (I only use that on the ultrafine). I do have to add, it took multiple flattenings on a coarse DMT...

I've made 3 or 4 over the past half dozen or more years. Of course, I've only kept and used one, giving the others away! I too use my large shoulder plane to true it every once in a while (and it's been quite a while since the last truing). I actually used it early yesterday and is still...

I have to admit that that it was in this thread that it dawned on me to not be anal with a closely set mouth! I honestly cannot recall that showing in print and if anything, it has always been to set the frog close!

Don't know so much if it is "rubbish", JimB, but more that some have to add some sizzle to continue sales growth, plus the fact that often there is more than one way to "skin a cat"! The "cap iron" works, and I recall reading of adjustments far longer ago than 3, 4 or 5 years ("Planecraft"...