Search results

Good to see you too, Derek! Chris does an excellent job (as I have previously posted) with "Lost Arts Press". Though I already had copies of some of his reprints, what I have are old, vintage copies. As I am a American history buff, I have purchased a number of reprints of non-woodworking...

Jeez, I've stayed away from this forum for too long! Forums in the states are now "dumbed down, politically correct" (besides, filled with Schwarz fan-boys) and I miss the down & dirty, truth be told postings. As far as a publisher, I like a lot of the stuff Lost Arts Press puts out: I have...

Can't truthfully answer! I do know for certain, if Starrett is made in the US, it is marked "Made in the USA", and I was told by an engineer with the company, that the only thing to identify Starrett not made in the US, is if there are no markings stating where the item was made.

Here in the states, Starrett sold without "made in USA" was outsourced to the Pacific Rim. Starrett found quickly, through falling sales, that was not a good move and about 5 or 6 years ago, returned manufacturing to the US. For reference, all Starrett made in the US, is marked as such, and...

Perhaps Charlie, you just got used to how to plane correctly? Happens to all of us, sooner or later!

The upcoming Brown auction, in Harrisburg, PA, late October, has a Marples 44 listed (Lot B-175). Auction price range give is $100 to $200, and includes original box. I don't believe I will give up my LV!

Nothing like a good dog by your side Charlie!

I clean my strop with a rag moistened with solvents, like mineral spirits, or what I use on my stones-Marvel Mystery Oil. Does a fine job of removing dirt and any compound remnants. My strop is mounted on a piece of hardwood and now several decades olde-just getting broken in!

I've used "Marvel Mystery Oil" and it does an excellent job at refreshing my strop, removing all traces of compound, dirt, etc., that build up. After wiping on (don't soak), I vigorously wipe it off with clean paper towels.

Anyone here care to contribute thoughts on silver solder? In my plant, we've used it for tool assembly (steel on steel) and certain industrial gas piping joints (copper to copper), but never steel to brass. Might be an alternative.

What is the goal? Sharp edge? If so, what difference does it make how you get there? It's your time you're spending. I found it amusing that Frank Klauz has gone down the path of promoting jigs. I've sen earlier videos of him using only water-stones freehand, and this video started with...

Agreed and freehand lets you use all of a stone, and, if you wish use a smaller (cheaper in price) better stone.

Welding/brazing forms of attachment can be done successfully, but there is work required afterwards to true the sole, and said work can be significant. Fortnately, I employ several capable of knowing how to re-attach to minimize warping, and also machinists and tool makers to re-grind the sole...

I have several (long out of print) Hayward books. As these reprints seem to be a compilation of his magazibe writings, I'm left wondering if there is content not already presented in the vintage editions.

Is the content different from the Hayward books?

CC: From the US perspective, I look to the UK as having a larger percentage of woodworking professionals than the US (not a larger number, just a greater percentage that can be considered a professional). Because of that, is it possible in the modern market place, that the UK perspective is...

BB has it right. I employ close to 50 people, and in spite of a significant investment in a provisional patent (US), I abandoned commercial pursuit of the application (powder metal material and process). A mouse trap can be miles better in refinement, but in the end the fifty cent model works...

Same thoughts here, and with spendind an hour or two by adding a subbase, much of what this router does could be duplicated. In fact a piece of 1/4" polycarbonate clear plastic (very stiff, yet easily worked), a subbase could be worked up, by which its position is changed and not the cutter...

How about a close up of the Kunz? Is that one of the premium models? How is the blade and what are the idiosyncrasies? How does it compare to the Veritas (I have the same Veritas)? My favorite smoother is a Clifton #3, although a few weeks ago, I got an old LN, beat to hail, but old non-A2...

My methods will start with ground sock, milled slot and sides, and probabably ground taper, then heat treat & temper. Not so much interested in cost as I'm not doing this to sell irons, but just to experiment/play around!