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  1. R

    Best way to machine off one side of a large wood beam, in situ?

    There's nothing to run the saw on. The surface of the beam is not flat. (my fault, I went digging into the rot before I thought more about what I was doing...) I'd still need a jig. But yes, it would maybe be quicker...
  2. R

    Best way to machine off one side of a large wood beam, in situ?

    Grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint.... The welds are holding fine, this is prototype to prove the concept. It's going in the scrap bin as soon as its done its job. Now back to the woodworking!
  3. R

    Best way to machine off one side of a large wood beam, in situ?

    Good idea, but I forgot to say the beam doesn't have parallel sides...
  4. R

    Best way to machine off one side of a large wood beam, in situ?

    Looking for ideas on how to clean up a large wood beam, in situ, on our house. It has some patchy rot on one surface due to close contact with rotting wooden cladding boards and lack of ventilation. The beam is about 3m long and 120cm wide, 120cm thick. The rot has gone in maybe 40mm at the...
  5. R

    Tenoner blades

    Well those blades were ground on blanks that were, well, sh!t. I returned them for a refund, which, fair play, was given, no questions asked. I had a look elsewhere and I can thoroughly recommend Brigg Taylor at www.profiledesigntooling.com Fast turn around, a lot cheaper than the other...
  6. R

    Tenoner blades

    Just got some blades for my Whitehill tenon block. The fit of the limiter on the locating pins is a nice close fit. There's no slack. The fit of the cutter blade is a loose fit so the blade doesn't sit dead square unless you hold it in exactly the right place while you tighten the wedge block...
  7. R

    Sash seals - on the sash rails not the frame

    Thanks Ollie, Lucky for me, I don't need to do Georgian windows, just simple sashes. Big, but just simple sashes. The first window I will do is pretty straight forward. Small and it has a good frame. The bays are going to be the hardest as they are not square any more, the centre frames have...
  8. R

    Sash seals - on the sash rails not the frame

    Sorry Doug, only just found this. These look like a great idea! A seal in the corner to support the sash in both directions. Thanks for posting.
  9. R

    Sash seals - on the sash rails not the frame

    Hi Ollie, have no fear, I won't be using spring balances! I'll look into Stadip, not heard of that. Thanks. So 'regular way round' is fitting the glazing from the outside? Is having the beading exposed to weather a good idea? All the windows in our Orangery were done like that, but the...
  10. R

    Tenoning on a spindle moulder

    Not sure about my spindle being simple? It has a sliding table running on steel rails with roller bearings, tilting arbor, 4.3kw motor. No, it's not a twin head tenoner, but its a pretty good spindle. I'm using the wobble saw on the spindle. Seems to cut fine. No need for a jig. Just clamp...
  11. R

    Sash seals - on the sash rails not the frame

    I had a few windows made with spring balances. Have to say I'm not impressed. They look tacky and seem to be unreliable. If I can save my frames, I hope to be able to use lead weights to handle the DGU's. (Glad you're enjoying the journey too!) Just getting the joints clear in my head before...
  12. R

    Tenoning on a spindle moulder

    Multico TM3's appear to be £1600 on ebay, plus a VFD so getting on to 2k. One did go for £800 but 3phase again. Not sure if you'd 2 VFD's as I don't thnik you can run 2 motors off one? I can see how a small error with the tenoning gives you loads of firewood! Thanks for the views on the...
  13. R

    Tenoning on a spindle moulder

    Hi Ollie, Re the joint, using the existing rail dimensions and 4/8/4 glass, a 30 degree bevel with a 2mm flat and a 16mm wide tenon (to fit the 5/8" mortice), set half way through the rail, gave me that little step. I'm still drawing these, so I can easily simplify it my moving the tenon...
  14. R

    Tenoning on a spindle moulder

    Just had a chat with Whitehill. They suggested a flush combi mould/scribe head which allows for really long tenons as they can pass over the top of the cutter, instead of the tenon disk. They also said to avoid adjustable grooving cutters and just go with a fixed 10mm grooving tool for the slot.
  15. R

    Tenoning on a spindle moulder

    OK found the tenoning disks. Page 104 on the Whitehill catalogue. Is there any reason, other than price where a bigger diameter disk is worth getting incase I want to do tenons on a door for example? For the sashes I only need 40mm so the 125mm diameter disk is fine, but a 200mm disk would cut...
  16. R

    Tenoning on a spindle moulder

    Thanks chaps. I'll give Whitehill a look. I started looking through their catalogue and got a bit lost! LOL! The slight offset comes from using a 5/8" mortice and the dimensions of the rail and glass etc, but yes it can be simplified by moving the tenon across a bit! I've been following...
  17. R

    Sash seals - on the sash rails not the frame

    Thanks chaps. Lots to think on there. I hate the brush seals we already have. They were poorly fitted so maybe thats whats making me biased! One of the main reasons for upgrading the windows is not just for draft proofing and better insulation but I want to cut road noise as much as possible...
  18. R

    Sash window tooling 'systems'

    Thanks again Ollie, I will try Treforest just to compare prices. I found a local company (Dorset) that's quoting approx £50 per 0.5sq m for 4/6/4 softcoat outer with krypton and thin spacers. Yes, I read that toughened glass comes out not perfect, which would suit the property! We still have a...
  19. R

    Sash window tooling 'systems'

    I'll have a dig through their website and see if I can find that. Thanks.
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