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I have a Trend TC router bit, that although it feels sharp, isn't cutting. I had a close look at the edge on the bit with a microscope and its clear that what feels sharp clearly isn't! Can these be sharpend on a diamond flatstone? You can see how the edge chips away. Here's a brand new bit:

Sawing the front off from the top is not that easy in my case as access to the top face is limited by the rest of the structure. If I could get at it, I could run a circular saw along the top...

I've got a multi tool but I cant imagine it cutting this size of beam (about 2.5m long, 150mm high). What model Makita do you have?

Made some more progress today. Alas my new router bit found a massive iron nail, which was below the surface and invisible from the outside! I should have guessed it was there as they hold the cross beam onto the joists... Now I just have to machine around it until there's enough of a nub to...

I need to extract old rusty iron nails from wood beam. As the rust has started from the outside, there are no heads left on the nails and they are mostly flush with the wood. So far, I have found that digging out the wood around whats left of the nail and then grabbing it with side cutters...

Will do!

I don't know for sure, but it's possible the the mock tudor cladding was put on when the house was re-roofed with concrete tiles. The original woodwork would probably have been ok as would the pebble dashed lath and plaster infills. Lead would look nice. Accoya would be the ultimate choice for...

I used steel to avoid flexing when routing (which would give me a wavy surface finish) and as the beam I'm bolting it onto is not flat due to the rot, I want to support the jig at the ends only. I've got limited depth to play with too. The steel works great but to do a longer version I will need...

Well it was covered before - but the cladding was totally rotten. So I need to cut out the rot that's in the beam, treat it, then replace the missing area with new wood. Then I can re-clad it with boarding, but this time with some ventilation from underneath!

The construction is two cross beams. The lower sits on the ends of the ceiling joists. I'd say it is defo structural. Above it is another cross beam, this is suppoted by short uprights, about 5 or 6, which sit on the lower beam. These uprights can be replaced, one at a time with new wood. As...

I'm thinking I may route out every other 15mm and chisel or multitool out the remaining sections. That way the jig keeps the surface dead flat and level and I have a good guide surface for the multitool. This would almost half the time it takes to do.

The surface finish is not important as it will all be covered with new boarding, BUT where I need to lay new wood onto the original beams, I want as flat and level (as in vertical, horizontal and in depth) as possible. The construction means that only the beams running across need all the work...

Here's what I'm dealing with.

Up a 12m scaff tower, working sideways, with hidden nails in the wood, what could possibly go wrong...

Hmmm I do have an SDS drill so I may give that a go. Thanks.

Is 4mm per pass a lot? I have 35mm of material to remove, so I was hoping to take as much as possible on each pass. Is there an optimal speed? The speed control on my router just has letters A to F so I don't know if this is actually controlling power as well as speed.

Thanks for the offer anyway! Basically your version is similar to what I have, but rotated 90 degrees. The optimal solution would actually be a CNC router bolted to the side of the house! I could carve some designs into the beams afterwards! :) If I added a couple of leadscrews (threaded...

I have a cheap 1250w router and I am finding that it's producing a lot of dust rather than 'chips'. It feel like its struggling power wise with a 14mm wide stright carbide cutter, taking a 4mm depth of cut in an old wood beam. (maybe oak?) Will a decent Trend cutter work better? Is 1250w too...

Not easy as the beam is not parallel. Also I cannot afford to lose too much depth. I need 60mm of depth from the base plate of the router... in the worst place on the beam...

Too right! I am using a very old cheap mig and I just wanted to see if the jig would work...