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OK, this isn't exactly woodworking, but I know many of you have broader experience than just with the one material, and I have no metalwork experience at all (apart from bending the odd car or two!). I need to make a door and frame from either extruded aluminium or PVC for the front of a...

Ian & Aragorn, Thanks, that's now fully explained. Your jigs not only seem more versatile than the Kreg, but you've inspired me to attempt to make my own rather than shell out for what seems a very expensive commercial jig. Could you also explain which screws you use, I'm confused by the...

Yes, I would also be grateful for more detail on this point. I can't at this moment see how the screw can be NOT at an angle, but I'm very willing to learn from two guys who obviously have far more experience than me. Two admirable jigs, by the way, and Ian's is a work of art also. Regards, John

Devonwoody - "Lunchtime 12 - 2pm" Presumably you aren't self-employed! Lunchtime for me, if I'm lucky, is 15 minutes to scoff a couple of sandwiches, sometime between 12- 2pm. Regards, John (North Devon, which bit do you occupy?)

Alf, I have to explain to visitors to North Devon that “dreckly” is similar to the Spanish “mañana”, but without it’s intense sense of urgency. I’d say six months is on the hurried side. Regards, John

It may be near you, Dave, (where is it?? - no address on the web site that I could see) but it'd be a long trip for me! Regards, John

Thanks for going to that much trouble, Tony. That explains it very well. I had been under the impression that those simple drill stands didn't swivel, but obviously they do, so the answer is clear. Thanks again. Regards, John. Off to raid the piggy bank.

Nice idea, Tony. Is your "small village in the Midlands" called Birmingham? Regards, John

Hi Tony, It's Friday, been a bad week, and I'm tired. Please can you explain what you mean about how to accurately drill in the end of a 2" x 2" with a drill stand, when the piece of timber is maybe 18" long? Regards, John

OK Aragorn, that's better by far than any ideas I've had, so thanks! I'd planned to make a bed for an upturned cordless drill, and build a jig which enabled me to slide the end of the 2" x 2" onto the turning drill bit, with a mark to enable accurate depth of drill hole. Back in the '60's...

I'm building racks from 2" x 2" softwood, and because they need to be in a room with a small doorway, must be assembled in the room, so I'm using cross dowels to join the front and rear frames. My problem is, how can I drill a 10mm diameter hole accurately in the centre of the end of each 2" x...

Just wanted to endorse Neil's suggestion of SketchUp. It's a brilliant programme (sorry, program, it's from across the pond where they can't spell to save their lives!) and fun to learn. Not always perfect, but neither am I. Regards, John

It may have been the same plane blade, but was it the same finger? Isn't it annoying when you don't realise you've cut yourself till you see blood all over the piece of wood you've carefully planed to size, and then have to find where it's come from? Or is it only me? Hope you get a transfusion...

OK, I’ve given up the idea of using the table saw. I thought it was dangerous, or just problematic, but couldn’t see another way. But Alf’s jig is obviously the way to go, especially considering that I’m blessed with a 30’ x 20’ workshop, and have an 8’ x 4’ table in the centre, with loads...

I've got one of these, model FZT 250N, and the table is about 26" x 26" in old money. I need to cut up, as accurately as possible, some 8' x 4' sheets of 12mm and 18mm chipboard and MDF. Given that the Ferm fence provided with the saw is on the dangerous side of unreliable, and that the table...

I vaguely remember, a long time ago, someone telling me to never use a fluorescent light to illuminate a lathe, as there was a danger of it's strobe effect making a turning lathe look stationary. However this is probably as big a load of rubbish as most of the other stuff tucked in the corners...

I can't imagine having a band-saw like that and not using it for months...

In Chris's early post on this thread, the guy was "resawing a piece of 6/4 maple". Can anyone explain this please? Regards, John

I have recently bought my first router, and made a table for it. Height adjustment is with a car scissor jack underneath, which solves any problems with a flexing plate. The weight of the router is continually supported from underneath. I haven't (like some who've posted here and elsewhere)...

Thanks for that - my problem solved! Regards, John