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See if you can find some blades with extra set, to cut a wider kerf. I can't remember where I got mine from but it made a big difference. Phone one of the blade manufacturers and tell them you want a blade for cutting green wood, with extra set and they should be able to sort you out

Shouldn't that say the roughed wall thickness should be 10% the diameter of the blank? That's what I use and it usually works.

Depends what you mean by Japanese. If you're referring to pull-cut saws like the Silky (or similar) then they're designed for outdoor use. They're intended for use on trees. Any saw will suffer from nails and barbed wire - if you're working near an old fence line and are worried about metal work...

At the wildlife trust we use Silky Gomtaros (http://www.gustharts.com/sf102-silky-fox-gomtaro-saws/) in addition to bow saws. Not folding, but I prefer a sheathed saw that I can wear on my belt. No problems with the blades so far. At home I have a cheaper version of the small Silky folding saw...

I tend to leave my logs whole until I need them, at which point I generally make a couple of cross cuts to remove the end and cut a length and then use a couple of noodling cut as described by Beau (that's a perfect term for it that I hadn't heard before) to cut a slab. Or just one noodling cut...

For converting logs at home I prefer to have an electric saw as it disturbs the neighbours less and I can safely use it in the shed if I need to adjust a badly out of balance piece once it's already mounted. These days I use an Aldi electric one with a 14" bar. It's fairly basic and the tension...

I'd been following various forecasts running up to the evening and I was lucky enough to be already driving to a location when the minor alert came through on my phone. I headed out to Druridge Bay just north of Newcastle upon Tyne and my first test photos revealed some green. As I took more...

I have the Peter Child unit and one similar to the first Axminster with variable control. The Peter Child one is a far better machine and works perfectly despite being well over 20 years old. You can easily make new tips for it with basic ni-chome wire. EDIT: when I say far better I mean it's...

My best shear scrapers are both carbon steel and one of them used to be a chisel. It has a chunky tang :-)

We tend to use Bacho saws fitted with wet wood blades, which make a big difference. We also have silky saws. Plus chainsaws :D

Chainsaws may be noisy, smelly and dangerous, but for a tree of 30cm they are the most appropriate tool for the job. Yes, you can get them down using more basic hand tools but if the aim of the task is to get the job done then use the right tool. I work for the local wildlife trust and there's...

I've made quite a few handles for coffee machines (portafilter handles and various levers and knobs). Instead of threading the wood you should use a drop in anchor similar to http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p12620 - just drill a hole (either on the lathe or with a drill press) and glue the...

I can't remember if it was the titan brand but I got some wet and dry from Screwfix a few years back and it was useless - the grits were inconsistent and I suspected that there were some over size pieces of grit on some of the sheets I had. Also, the grit didn't stay bonded to the paper as well...

I've just sent you a message

I think the Aspen which is currently in my small Stihl was bought at least 2 years ago and it worked fine last time I tried it and it often has fuel left in it for months at a time without a problem. This is the second can I've had and I've never had a problem with it. Most of the time these...

In the past we used veg oil at work but it would get sticky and unpleasant - not great for cold weather. We also had an incident where we had some stored in the wood and the container was chewed through by a mouse! These days work uses Oregon chain oil bought in 25l drums. At home I use Stihl...

Yes, no problem. I saw her last week and will make a point of hunting her out on MOnday

I suspect that it's just what you would expect with end grain. To determine if it's the grain or the issue with the lathe loosen the chuck jaws (assuming that's what you're using to hold the wood), rotate the piece about 90 degrees and turn again. If the roughness is in the same place then it's...

Remember that movement isn't just down to moisture content. A piece of wood could be from where the tree was in tension/compression and removing the centre relieves that tension, sometimes causing the wood to move.

The Toolpost website is shockingly bad and has been in need of a revamp for years. Why do they insist on having all prices without VAT?