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I rebuilt an C18th farmhouse in very wet Ireland, limestone. All work carried out using fat lime mortars occasionally gauged with NHL3.5. No damp whatsover anywhere but I confess I deliberaty kept the house well ventilated. I would tend to agree. Fat lime mortars can be knocked back up...

Drawings may have to be removed as I didn't ask Carter for permission to publish them. I haven't bought one yet, maybe the 2400, for this saw which is taking me forever to rebuild.

I found Carter not very helpful, they also told me they wouldn't ship outside the US. In the end I telephoned and the engineer I spoke to was far more helpful. He emailed me drawings with measurements too..

As far as I am aware one should not use a filtered mask for spraying 2 pack paints. Some 2 packs contain isocyanates, but others do not. I use the occasional "2K rattle can" outside, some isocyanate, some not. How do I choose the best filter for my 3M or JSP mask? I know I probably shouldn't but...

I've been building with lime, originally fat lime mortars which I made myself using 1-1.5 tons of quicklime per batch by the hot mix method since the early 90's. This was occasionaly gauged with hydraulic lime, St Astier 3.5 mostly as it was the only one available. I haven't lived in the UK...

Excellent company, although I haven't dealt with them for many years. Although there were times I cursed the day Douglas introduced me to lime mortars.

I'm not sure the OP knows yet if the mortar is cement or lime based. As you quote NHL 3.5 I asume you referring to bagged hydraulic lime. Personally I would refer to the manufacturers instructions with regard to ratios, I have mostly used 3 to 1 sand to lime. Each manufacturer will be different...

I'm no expert but I have never seen dyed lime mortar in an early 20C brick building. Pointing should be sacrificial, ie softer than the brick so that it fails before the brick. Hydraulic lime is relatively easy to use but will need protecting from cold weather and keeping damp for the first few...

I thought adding lime to cement mortar, usualy hydrated rather than hydraulic or fat lime, increased flexibility rather than strength. I have always taken the view that the stuff between the bricks, or stone for that matter, was to keep them apart rather than stick them together.

He also did an interesting series of articles on Japanese hammers.

Thanks, great idea

They are both threaded and both out now. Small piece of mdf with silicon sheet held with clamps did the job. It’s in its way to the saw doctor for sharpening.

Sold on eBay

No car boots here, and I'm fairly remote. The back of a stanley knife blade fits perfectly but is too brittle, it's a very narrow slot.

Screws are original. I've had the saw from new.

Thanks, worked a treat. Wish I had the right screwdriver though.

The blade is loose and both screws are spinning. Should I leave the blade loose? Why notched, or the hammer and punch? As shown in the image it's a plain slot.

The other screw was neither tapered nor serrated, it took patience and some luck to get it out. We'll see if the medallion is tapered when I get it out.

good idea, maybe a piece of silicon mat as well between medallion and piece of wood. But when I put them back? what is going to stop them from turning?

The blade was loose and I managed to remove one screw with time. It would seem neither screw has a serrated shank so both just turn in the hole. I would prefer not to have to glue something onto the nut side as I think it will be difficult to clean the image up afterwards. How were they supposed...