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Thank you all. The supplier says " use a man drill using a titanium drill to do the holes. Often with the handle on so it all lines up. " I assume they mean TiN coated I think will not cut as well as a good cobalt drill. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and hope it doesn't go too wrong.

Has anyone used these? I had never heard of them before this morning. I have always used Nakahashi or Clico. Is there a big difference?

Very different to the French and Italian sweet chestnut I buy regularly. Much lighter. If used outside does it drip buckets of brown tannin stain?

In the UK dovetail saws are sold as both crosscut an rip. I have a Pax crosscut 20 tpi.

It works exactly like a coping saw, just much finer if you want. Some fretsaws have fixed blades but the blade is so fine you easily turn a corner, with other fretsaws you can turn the blade and some have fixed stops, usually at 45 degrees. Matt Eastlea did a fretsaw comparison in one of his videos.

I'm not sure if this is the whole answer but it is possibly used more for metal, but works perfectly well in wood with the right blade, and the saw blade is held in the saw differently, it doesn't have the small pins sticking out, it's completely flat and held with a grub type screw. I bought it...

Isn't it supposed to depend to some extent on whether it is softwood or hardwood furniture?

I think I agreed with you on the scrollsaw, in fact only yesterday I received my fretsaw from Germany. Having watched the Cerritos college YT video, however, I quite liked his chisel approach.

I'm sure they could but I'm in Italy and they are in the UK. Not quite as easy to get work done like that here in Italy. Would probably cost more than the saw. Very different culture, not really into DIY.

Not cheap for a file, especially if you have to get it over to Ireland, but sold by a sawdoctors who make top quality saws. https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Files.html#SID=463

I only have modern saws I could practise on and I don't imagine they are hardened to the same extent across the full width? I don't know much about saw construction.

As the "cone" of the point on a drill bit is actually deeper than the thickness of the blade it is difficult to imagine it would leave a clean hole, no matter how slowly I went.

I want to be sure that I get it right first time.

I confess I haven't read the whole thread yet, but here is someone who makes dovetailing look easy. Sorry, same person, different post on YT.

I recently sent my 20tpi c/c dovetail saw blade in for sharpening. It's a long process, my wife took it to England when she visited, posted it and it was returned to my sister-in-law before posting it back to me. For some reason, and it only arrived yesterday, so I haven't had an opportunity to...

I think it might be easier for a beginner to pare off to a line rather than chop all the way through. Especially if it is a difficult timber.

Annother for Carlisle Brass. They do a wide range and offer numerous specs.

Yes, when dry. I use mostly Douglas fir, french sweet chestnut, eastern European oak and poplar. I sometimes find myself picking the heavier denser pieces where more strength is required. I've never calculated the difference but I would have thought up to 30% or 40% difference.

I'm not sure you can rely on density. I find I can have huge variations in density when handling the same species.

Have a look at Allendale ultrasonics. Not only do they have a variety of machines but also different solutions for different jobs.