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Come on Chris - I’ll pick you up on my from St. Albans!

Been to the last three (or four can’t remember) and will certainly go to this. It’s a great day out and opportunity to meet up with a great bunch not to mention helping out a wonderful cause. I cannot recommend it enough. Can’t wait!

If I were in your shoes I’d be looking to plane up one side and edge with hand planes before thicknessing down with my thicknesser. Once you get the knack it really doesn’t take that long and is quite rewarding (as an amateur). If I were earning my living from woodworking I’d probably need a...

I know it’s not what the OP asked about but Tersa knives are excellent. Long lasting, leave a great finish and dead easy to change.

Oi you lot - stop telling bob his saw is not precise - we’ll have another saga before you know it!! In all seriousness I’m sure it can be as precise as you can be arsed to fettle it to. Much like the RAS you’ll no doubt get diminishing returns as you dial it in but soon enough you’ll get it...

That’s nice TM. How thick are the shelves by the way?

As I intimidate earlier, in my limited experience I’d say setting up a RAS is far more involved and demanding than setting up a table saw however the end result can be as accurate as anything else in the workshop. It took a while to get it there but my RAS now cuts bob on 90* and 45* with no...

The way that I set up my table saw is covered above ref; use of the same tooth fore and aft of the arbour. I can’t see what advantage a bit of MDF would have over the steel plate of an actual saw.

Mate, it sounds a lot more bearable than the 44* and over it regularly hits during summer! Currently a balmy 13* and sunny here in in London - lovely!

This x 20 if you are setting up a radial arm saw!

All good advice above but you might do one or two things differently during your next attempt to help avoid the same thing happening again. If it were me I’d consider using bearers underneath the panel to raise it up a bit and cauls, across the width on each end, to keep it all level. This is...

Hi Rafe. How’s you mate? The shellac didn’t work as well as the Zinser stuff to be fair (needed another coat iirc) but both definitely benefit from thorough sanding to get the best from them. Zinser wins on the sheer one and done convenience of it, once you’ve swallowed the price!

The vacuum hose snagging is the most annoying part of track saw use I find. I’d love to hear of a way to avoid it happening.

I’m glad we can agree that 10 x magnification can be thrown away as far as helping newbies get to grips with sharpening quickly and efficiently is concerned. As for the rest I don’t really have anything else to add to my comments above apart from that the question of whether to micro-bevel or...

That may we’ll be the case but as I say I’ve no experience of using UF glues so can’t comment. I do remember the article though and it tested a number of waterproof glues including PU, UF and TB3 by leaving glued joints out in all seasons. Cascamite was the first to fail as the glue was “glass...

Good man. I have a sander and a jigsaw that is also UK made Makita and I believe their top end mitre saws are made here too. Their plant is up in Telford I believe and European HQ in Milton Keynes.

I use Zinser BIN. It’s shellac based and does a good job although it’s still important to sand edges properly before and after application. Ive used a strong mix of dewaxed blonde shellac as well in the past but the Zinser stuff is more convenient (if spendy).

I’ve only used Titebond 3 but it has worked well for me. I remember reading an article circulated a while ago that showed cascamite failed fairly quickly as it lacked the elasticity to move with the wood as it took on and shed moisture. I’ve never used it myself but those findings did seem to...

I’ve got one and like it a lot. I only use it for wide cross-cuts on sheet goods though (I think that’s what track saws are best for) so I’m not an advanced user. It’s also the only track saw I’ve owned and used. I do use it with an MFT style top and it’s very accurate. It’s also got lots of...

Wow this thread is a blast from the past and no mistake. I was using that No. 8 the other day for edge jointing as it happens and it still works like a dream. More to the point of this thread though - it doesn’t look restored at all, even when next to other planes of similar vintage. I’ve...