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Lol! Hands up anyone that has been sent out to get a bag of those before =;

Bandsaws are great at certain tasks and as I said earlier can obviate the need for some of the tasks a table saw can do but they cant cover the whole gambit. They can’t really work sheet stock or do rebates, grooves or housings and the limitations arising from the throat mean cross cuts are out...

In my (limited) experience track saws are very good at wide cross cuts of sheet materials. I haven’t found them to be worthwhile on narrower stock or solid. I wouldn’t even consider ripping something like 5” wide boards of oak down to a narrower dimension. If I’m making the finish cut then it’s...

If it’s single phase it may also have a centrifugal switch for the capacitors which also make funny noises on run down.

Wow! 14’ x 20” and 2” thick! That is some serious timber. I can appreciate taking tool to wood being preferable to the other way around with boards of that size. They must be a rarity though as I don’t think I’ve seen any that long and wide before.

Interesting. When I have large boards to work I will; mark out the rough (oversize) dimensions in pencil or chalk, make the cross cuts on my RAS then; do the rough rips on my bandsaw. Once I’ve got that initial dimensioning out of the way I’ll surface, joint and thickness those rough...

You can certainly make do without a table saw although things like ripping are much easier and quicker once you have one. If you don’t have the space though, then the point is moot - you are in the land of making do. Nothing wrong with that and I’m sure many such woodworkers make better stuff...

Well I’m out of ideas - the guides on my 352 are nothing like that. Do you have a pic of the machine itself? That would help date it.

:lol: at least that will give you something to look forward to and help you take your mind off that sander! Or you could just have a beer and if Pauline says anything blame it on me - I’ve always been a bad influence!!

Hi and welcome. A number of us on this site have 352’s (me included) of various ages. My own one (1970’s vintage) has a different guide block set up to the one you describe. It’s possible that this changed over the years or that the previous owner of yours added them as an after market option. A...

Blimey - you really are bored today aren’t you bob? Why don’t you just have a beer by the pool and make us all feel jealous? :)

If the motor is wound star and 400v on the plate, you can actually take out the star joint and re configure it delta/240v yourself. See my thread here for a quick and dirty how to -> star-point-in-three-phase-motor-t113222.html

Aren’t they still in business? Couldn’t you call them and ask?

:D lol good man! I’d be really interested in seeing what you come up with SLJ as that kind of industrial look has some potential. For the record though; my wife would hate it.

Hilti make the best builders drills you are likely to come across but they cost a pretty penny. I have a Bosch GBH multi-drill though and it’s also a great bit of kit. A bit big but more than man enough to handle anything an enthusiastic diy-er like me is likely to throw at it, including 4”...

Quick question; what do you feel you need the manual for I wonder? Most of these machines are fairly basic affairs without much complexity requiring explanation. Perhaps there is something we can help you with here?

Yes, if weight is a consideration then you should know that the old English machines are generally very heavy. That is in some ways a positive as it makes them very stable, regardless of the lumps of timber you throw at them, however if too heavy that might make them difficult to manage. I...

Yes - I have a late eighties Sedgwick MB with a Tersa head. Gives 12” of width but you might struggle to find one at £1k - especially if you’re looking for single phase. £1.5k or thereabouts much more likely.

Lol! Now that you mention it I know exactly what you mean :shock:

I can’t wait!