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An imperial socket set will do most of it. You will also need an imperial hex key (can’t remember the size) to remove the fence.

The 112 is also a good tool, although I think both it and the 80 are best for large surfaces. For me anything small gets done with a hand/cabinet scraper.

Awesome news Bob and a tale well told. So the sunnybob tablesaw saga comes to a close at long last. Still can’t figure out why you turned down that Wadkin I brought over for you but there’s no figuring some folk out!

David you are now officially my brother from across the pond. PS - Call mom. She’s complaining she hasn’t heard from you lately :D

Yes very interesting. I don’t think his problem was the thickness of the reducing ring or the “cup flanges” as he calls them. More the fact that his reducing ring didn’t actually fit the bore of his blade.

Looks amazing D_W. Awesome work sir! Luthiery must be one of the hardest woodworking disciplines to master.

Perhaps that makes sense but it is borderline academic imo. If the OP minds the burr then he will have taken care of dubbing/rounding over as nothing drops a burr quite like a rounded edge! 10x magnification to check your edge makes sharpening seem way trickier than it needs to be. With equal...

I don’t want to kick off another one of those threads but you can tell what you are doing without the need for any magnification. It’s just a question of have you raised a burr across the whole width of the cutting edge with your coarsest stone and have your finer stones fully replaced the...

I should add that in my experience one advantage diamonds do have is in speed of cutting. Arks are very good stones as well but generally slower working which is why the black is good for finishing as it doesn’t need to remove much metal to do its thing. Having said that; I haven’t found any...

I dare say you don’t really need any new stones if all you want to achieve is “wicked sharp” in a woodworking context. As they are all oil stones I’d start with the coarse side of the Norton and progress from there to white then black Ark. A combination India on its own is a great stone but you...

Wish I could make it today but alas it’s not to be. Hope it’s not impacted by the snow for those that do attend. Say hi to the usual crowd for me Jim and Andy!

For a box where it doesn’t need to resist pulling or pushing in a particular way then I think aesthetics should be your guide - whatever looks best to you. For the toy box I did for my little girl I went with tails on the long edges, pins on the short. It worked ok although I do think that the...

I’ve got a single phase BGS10. The previous owner just swapped out the three phase motor for a single phase one (I got the old motor with the machine as well). It’s a pretty straight forward operation by all accounts.

Each to their own but I can only comment based on my personal experience and that is that I’ve never had issues with the fence, depth stop or adjuster on my 78. It just works as it should. No doubt there are some lemons out there to be avoided but I’m sure mine isn’t the only good one either! In...

Not as sexy as either of the options described above but have you considered a Stanley #78 as another alternative? Plentiful and cheap on the second hand market, not to mention extremely good at what it does. Pic of my own one below:

Nice haul! Each of those Wadkins is enough saw for most people’s lifetimes. Well done on finding them and putting them to use. The unidentified lever is for a hand brake by the way.

Well done if you can! The term “rocking horse poo” comes to mind!

Nice! Does it have the chain sharpening module?

The only thing I have bolted down is my RAS as that helps to keep all the settings and alignment in place. My planer thicknesser and table saw are heavy lumps of mainly cast iron and do not move so much as a fraction of an inch without considerable and deliberate effort to that end. My bandsaw...

I like using a number 6 on a shooting board. Seems to have the right sort of length of sole ahead of the blade and a decent amount of heft.