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There must be different types of Snappy ones: the ones I have (these ones) are a set of hex collets each holding a replaceable standard HSS jobber drill. I really like them – convenience of quick-release hex shank combined with serviceability with commodity round shank bits. You can even put...

I bought this Bosch set a couple of years ago. They cut well, but a couple of them don't mount on the arbor right (of course, didn't notice until after the return window closed...) – these ones can either thread all the way on to the arbor and not use the torque pins (holes and thread out of...

If you've bent the shaft, that would be covered under warranty anyway... Most machines exhibit vibration during motor startup that goes away when up to speed, so I wouldn't worry about it if it's running and cutting smoothly. You could also check to see if any screws or fasteners fixing the...

Have you got a photo Niall? I've got some pewter-effect window handles, but they're brass rather than steel, so not sure what you're describing exactly.

I think this has been well covered by now and you've got your problem solved, but just for the record: electrical soldering irons and so-called "soft" solder (tin/lead or lead free, including with silver in it – this is distinct from silver solder, which is mostly silver) don't stick to steel...

To be fair, I'm a big fan of quality Chinese tools and buy lots of them (e.g. Quangsheng hand planes for woodworking) – like others have said, they can make things to just as high a quality as anywhere in the world. What I'm not a huge fan of is the generic, unbranded or white-labeled, made by...

Obviously Moore & Wright has been great quality (which is why I listed it alongside Mitutoyo and Starrett) – I was wondering if they still are, or if they outsourced production or sold their brand like so many other great British tool brands of old.

I've been getting into some machining recently, and find myself in the market for a micrometer or two, and potentially some other instruments (DTI and magnetic base/holder, bore gauges etc). I am a Mitutoyo fan, generally very impressed with their quality having used some dial callipers for the...

I have the Makita 2012NB and it's great.

One other difference – Festool uses 2.2mm blades whereas Mafell blades are 1.8mm. In theory, the thicker blade should give cleaner results when cutting along the grain as in a deep rip cut in hardwood as the blade is stiffer and will better resist flexing to follow the grain. Not sure it makes...

I went to one of the recent roadshows hoping to try out this saw, unfortunately they didn't bring it to my area. But I did chat to the Festool rep about it – he stressed it was "just" a site saw, not intended for cabinetry/furniture making use, and I shouldn't expect much precision from it...

Anyone here used the Mafell FM-1000 spindle (FM 800 / FM 1000 (PV) / FM 1000 (PV) WS: Mafell AG), especially the PV-WS version? I like the idea of a German-made self-contained unit specifically designed for use as a CNC router, with built in speed control (computer controllable for the PV...

I'm not convinced a mitre saw is a very useful tool for furniture making, I mostly agree with this guy's point of view on the matter: I have a small Dewalt one (DWS774) I've used for DIY and house renovation things (skirting boards, trim etc) and keep it in a cupboard in my small garage...

I bought a box of 150mm 120 grit discs for my ROS on the back of a US Youtuber recommending them – extremely impressed, both with the results and with the dust extraction. I found they lasted a lot longer than Abranet or similar, and the dust extraction with the "multi-hole" version (see pic)...

Just wanted to give a shout out to the TSO rail square (I have this one: TSO Products GRS-16 Guide Rail Square – was £89 at the time, possibly on sale). I've never tried the benchdogs one, but I got the TSO for what I consider to be a superior and much faster attachment to the rail with the...

I have a mixture of Bosch 12V, Bosch 18V, Ryobi 18V, and mains/corded tools. I try to buy mains corded tools for things that (should) last a long time, as mains will still be usable in 10+ years, whereas battery standards might have been deprecated by then as the technology improves. I also try...

What are people's thoughts on the current high prices of tools compared to say 2 years ago? A table saw I was eyeing up 2 years ago (the Axminster/Harvey AT254LS) was £1599 and is now £2199, and a bandsaw I was considering (Record Power Sabre 350) was £999 and is now £1240, i.e. 20-35% higher...

I bought a DF500 last year, and like others here I ummmed and aahhed about that versus a DF700 versus perhaps a biscuit jointer for a big kitchen cabinets project. My research lead me to conclude that biscuit jointer would really only be useful to me for panel glue-ups as an alignment aide...

If you're using it for woodworking (rather than rough construction) I'd highly recommend 10.8/12V drills and impact drivers. I have Bosch blue drill and impact, and find the 12V (older brushed model, GDR 12V-105, rated to 105Nm) impact ideal for woodwork. In fact I had an interesting learning...

There are two numbers you need to pay attention to – one is the colour temperature (warm is around 3000K ±200, neutral 4000K, daylight/cool around 5600-6500K) and the other is colour rendering index (CRI) where 100 is perfect (technically equivalent to a black body radiator, which halogen lamps...