Search results

I bought, a couple of 4 packs of 2000 grit w&d today from Halfords at £3.99 a pack. I tried a couple of motor factors outlets as suggested but they only stocked to 1200 gt. I didn't get a chance to try it as SWMBO had me painting the banisters today, maybe tomorrow I 'll get the chance.

Thanks Fellahs, for the relatively low cost of the paper I'll pop in a buy a few sheets to see how it works out. Many thanks. David

You are right mate, chip already taken care of but my heart did sink when I heard the "tick" of the blade engaging the hard knotty bit. I was just concerned about having to muss up my shiny sole plate due to the sticking, a swipe of Briwax should do the trick then. Cheers

Phil - when you say motor factor, can you clarify, do you mean a dealership?

Thanks boys, I have an old plane or two which could easily fit into the "don't care" bracket and good to know I can keep my polished sole. Thanks again. David

Now that i have been bitten by the the hand plane bug I will be asking lots of what may seem silly and obvious questions. However, I suppose that is the way to learn (other than actually trying it your self of course). I was practicing my planing on some recycled oak (old table leg) last night...

This is obviously a more involved operation than I had anticipated. Perhaps a lot of it is a labour of love and a fascination of sharpening method. I think until I am a tad more experienced in this art the simplest method may actually just be very fine W&D paper. Seems I need to pop into...

A fellow Ayrshire man ?

Ah, thanks fellahs, that makes perfect sense. You've both been very helpful. Btw - Nice tip with the Autosol Paul. David

Can anyone recommend a diamond plate for final honing of plane & chisel blades please. I have a 400 & 1000 grit stone but consider the 1000 grit still too course for final blade honing. If you can recommend a brand or particular type that would be appreciated too. I am not interested in oil...

i always believed a high carbon rod was required so if the blade of your screwdriver has the high content and works then stay with it. I am also of the opinion a thin rather than thicker rod is preferable.

My view is having a mix of the two, expensive and cheap, is that, you can definitely see the difference in the quality of the engineering in the expensive plane. The high end planes have that hand built look to them where as the cheaper ones have the" stamped out on the line" appearance. That...

Thanks again boys for the input. I havn't been able to view the video on the polishing but i did forget to mention I purchased this a coupl3e of weeks ago. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170942392110? ... 1439.l2649 which i have have applied to an old piece of leather from a recycled school...

I prefer to learn the hard way it seems, Anyway, I now have first hand experience of the way not to do it. I note you advance your honing to 2000 W&D grit? is this necessary?, i.e will honing to this degree produce a noticeably distinct difference from an iron honed to 1200 W&D grit. I ask as I...

I totally agree with your predicament re cheap furniture. On a slight variation, I was a couple of years ago being dragged around the shops like a petulant child by SWMBO. We were in a Laura Ashley shop when I noticed a six drawer chest of drawers, (4 main drawers and two half drawers) Anyway...

Fellahs - many thanks for all the input, I have learned a lot already from the tips and you have supplied. I had a visit to the shop last night after work to consider the issue again. i believe I identified and rectified the problem. Here is what I had done initially to cause the problem (if...

Would the David Charlesworth method of the ruler trick affect placing the iron close to the blade edge as his method, from what i can see creates a small chamferl on the back of the blade where it meets the micro bevel edge?? David

It may well have been the case as I was having difficulty securing the cap iron to the blade when tightening the cap iron screw. I had lapped the meeting edge of the cap iron and waxed the iron and cap iron to lessen the risk from rust. the combination of the two made for a very smooth and...

Many thanks fellahs. I was working at around 1/32" or thereabouts thinking that was good for my smoother when in actual fact the guidance you have uncovered is for rough work?? I guess I'll have to go back to the bench and undertake a little more experimentation. Thanks all. David

Thanks Andy, I'll have a look. Very close, yep open to interpretation but I suppose it a case of more experimentation. That said, I tried it very "close" perhaps around a fraction under 1mm and was making dust rather than shavings. Taking it back a smidge further I was achieving what I consider...