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You would be best advised to plane it to desired dimensions youself. However, before you do so I would leave it the shop for a few days to let it acclimatise first. After a few days plane to a dimension close to your final thickness, leave it over night than plane to exact size. Good luck

No problem mate, I too have owned several "economy" SCMS in the past, fine for framing and rough work, for which they cannot be faulted. However, when making exact cuts their shortfalls are evident. I now have a Bosch 12" chop saw ( Not the sliding type) it allows for a 200+mm cross cut at 90...

It could be several things eg 1. The blade could be flexing as you make the cut. 2. There may be run out on the saw blade arbor. 3. You have slop in the bearings on the glide bar 4. A combination of all three. Investment in an inexpensive dial gauge could prove useful to check for run out on...

Thanks guys, I'll keep looking. BTW - definitely carving, not scroll sawing. Cheers

The question was, "what is the the L shaped bar for" I think it fair to say we are agreed it is a repeat stop

From what I think you are contemplating i.e veneering, then the matching ends may not need to be an issue? From you description, once you have applied the edge banding to the MDF boards it will need to be flushed trim with the MDF panel so not to create a proud edge where the timber lip and MDF...

Looks to me like it is an adjustable stop for repeat cuts

A close elderly neighbour of mine (and friend) asked me if I could carve a small door sign/plaque for her. I assume because she knows I do woodworking as a hobby the particular skill & craft of woodcarving was right down my street. Unfortunately it is not. She is a fan of the disney character...

Here you go. http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technolo ... ng-tape-3m

Sorry, back now. Eithyer way, there is going to be a fair amount of waste which ever way you slice the material. A table saw for example will hog out somewhere between 2.3 - 3mm of waste on each pass, while a bandsaw will take out around 1mm, depending on which blade you opt for. I don't know...

I suspect your option would be to use a bandsaw, a scroll saw would probably not be a suitable machine for prolonged use on this material. I am not familiar with the plastic you mention although most woodwork cutters can handle machining of plastic.....back in a mo, the fire building alarm has...

Mate, I have the JET 310 version, I'm assuming it is the same set up? As you are not far away ( I'm in Huntingdon) you are welcome to pop over and have a look at mine as a comparison. David

No doubt you will have already guessed, the glue is water based, the freezing weather conditions will play havoc with such adhesives. I'm not sure why you find the results disappointing?

Fantastic looking space my friend. Looks like you have a snug and cozy space to make saw dust. If you change your name to Steve you will have loads of fawning comments come your way :roll: Happy New Year to you :occasion5:

Thanks for all the responses fellahs, very much appreciated. As it turns out and since my last post I have done a little more research on the matter. It would seem all of what has been mentioned on this thread was the pertinent points identified by other users I tapped into online and Youtibe...

Dexter & Ed - thanks for the tips gents, it seems the smaller 1/4" collet routers are the preferred option. It makes sense i suppose to have the smaller more controld routers. Ed, I had a look at the Ryobi, a wide range of reviews and price for this machine, interesting.

mseries - I sent you a PM on the other thread. Thanks for your advice.

Thanks again mseries, I'll have a look on ebay as you pointed outy but I think I may have found what I am after. Cheers David

It seems Axminster sell a range of Leigh guide bush adaptors. http://www.axminster.co.uk/leigh-adapto ... sel=410003

Thanks mate, I'll look into it. David