Search results

The hinges can be screwed through the mullion into the adjacent sidelight. Sidelights will be screwed to the frame but any suggestions as to the best way and where to screw appreciated.

Thanks all. No cill, the floor is flush between two rooms. The doors are standard Premdor pattern 10 with glass and I already have those. They are 35mm thick. This is an ex-outside wall so 300mm thick or so, so the frame is not the full depth. I'll stick with 135mm deep but may not have...

Another picture. This is the cross-sections of the various verticals. The question is though can I get away with making them smaller without compromising any structural integrity?

It's been a while since I did any serious butchering of wood but I have a door frame to build for a set of internal doors. 3m or so wide with two side panels and two opening doors in the centre. I was going to use 135mm deep timber all around but am now worried that this may look too deep...

Do you know? You are probably the first person that I have come across who remembers Fry's 5 Boys. There used to be a vending machine on our local station. I don't know if it was a West Country thing - what with Fry's being in Bristol - or whether it was available nationwide.

And I will treat myself to the Workbench book if I may.

Thanks all. worn thumbs slot cutter from routercutter looks exactly what I need and its bearing guided so no need for a guide - 0.06mm difference is far less than I normally work to. I can't find a bearing guided cutter on the Wealden site and their variable cutter will not go thin enough. And...

Would a table be better? Some of the doors are quite large so might be unwieldy with an router table. I was rather hoping I might be able to find a suitable slot cutter with a bearing. Then it could be done on the bench.

Its a while since I was last here but hoping I might get an opportunity to butcher some wood this year. First though is a kitchen to install. Our chosen handle is of the type that sits on the top of the drawer or door rather than being fixed to the face. To this end it requires a 2.6mm wide...

Take a look at https://www.diy-kitchens.com. We are in the process of installing a new kitchen and went up to the showroom last year. They too have a comparision of units and theirs look fairly solid, come pre-assembled and an attraction to us is that they come in a range of colours.

OK, this is the piece in cross-section. As you can see there is a channel formed between the two pieces that takes the water from inside the screen to the outside. This looks as if it needs some kind of seal to prevent this. But what? Andrew

I've done that but the problem is that the water is getting through the joint and out the other side by virtue of the fact that the moving part is not an exact fit. It goes down the gap, around the hinge and out the other side. Will try to do a cross-section when I get home if that would help...

OT since no woodworking involved but I know that a few people around here install bathrooms so might be able to help. I have just installed a new bath screen. I believe it originally came from B&Q although I picked it up unused and second-hand. There is very little in the way of installation...

Thanks. That looks like the adjustment that I need to get me going. An interesting manual. There are several other little adjustments that I might check as well although all seems to be cutting pretty square. I do have a Festool blade but it needs sharpening and I have not got around to finding...

That's what it looks like but that is almost saying that you will need a new strip every time you switch from say, ripping oak to cutting mfc. And a new one again when switching back again. Actually, thinking about it no need for a new strip when switching from the narrower blade to the wider...

I have been cutting some sheet MFC with the Festool saw and a new Trend blade and have been getting some breakout. Investigation shows there is a small gap between the teeth on the blade and the edge of the track and I am assuming that this is due to the Trend blade having narrower teeth in...

Thanks Jason, I had reaslised that I was going to have to be careful choosing hinges but using one the other way around is inspired. I am guessing that something like this is probably what I am looking for but used with a door that is face fitted rather than inset. Andrew

Thanks, I had thought about piano hinges but not sure how secure they would be screwed into the edge of MFC. So looks like kitchen cabinet hinges it is. Would three be enough for a 800x500mm cabinet? I was hoping to have the mirror overlapping the door by about 25mm which is why it needs to be...

I am about to build a bathroom cabinet that will have a 850mm x 550mm, 6mm thick mirror mounted on the door. Since this is going to add quite a bit of weight what is going to be the best hinges to use? Andrew

I was going to identify it as Prunus laurocerasus but held back because I wasn't certain. Your identification from my description makes me more confident. I don't do any turning - I don't have the tools but my father is interested in trying a bit if it is likely to be any good. The rest is...