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I am not sure how screws in runners will help align the fence. I've seen a few of your jigs where you use similar techniques, which all make sense. In this case, it is the squareness of the fence. I have the runners on and fairly good fit, a bit of binding, however that is down to my saw more...

Tolerences... I finally made one with many struggles that i won't document, however, i now have 2/1000 across 50" using 4cut technique. Seems reasonable to me, any thoughts? Running out of space to put new holes!

Whats the min thickness for the base material? I have some 8mm mdf, and i don't want to lose too much depth off my blade. I've worked out how to make the runner (for readers of my previous post on the matter). I will plane a piece to a thicnkess that matches width of slots, and the cut strips...

Another way, i have used. Plane a piece of wood to the thickness you want to cut. Chop this in to say 10 pieces. Put a stop on your mitre, probably using a sacrificial or longer fence attached. Then make one cut to square the end, then insert one of your strips, cut, insert another and cut...

Yer, sorry, what i meant was different from what I wrote. When google bought them, they bought in all the staff too. It seems most of the staff are now leaving with the product. So in effect it's like Google absorbed and then spat out the company... however at profit yes. I can see that...

thanks for the advice, i have double checked and it's not bottoming out, however the register of the chuck may be slightly shorter than what chas called the locating collar, by just a hair... can't really tell...

Yes, I don't have a c spanner that goes with this. I was wondering if the threads in the chuck were just touching the locating collar, causing it to twist at the last moment. however having taking some rough measurements it seems there should be room..

Thought a close up of the lathe thread might help. I have all the dimensions, however left in the workshop, doh!

Well, i) the chuck I bought is dedicated insert to match the lathe to avoid issues of adaptors / inserts, and ii) i thought the sorby was sort of the rolls royce of chucks. if £160 does not buy one a decent chuck with just the one set of jaws included, then one's looking at a mortgage to get a...

Further attempts show that the wriggle room means I can move through the right setting until the last turn, which pulls the chuck tight against the headstock at an angle. I can feel it forcing the angle. So either the depth of register is to great and I just hit the threaded part if the chuck...

So I do have clearance at 3, however still fail to see how the difference in register and internal chuck diameters means I can have a centred chuck. Even so,I cannot get the chuck to sit flat against shoulder (1)

Ok, in the shop with feeler gauges and a ruler now. Assuming my second picture with the black block is how it should be, when it's fully tightened there is a gap between chuck and "black blob". .2mm smallest and 0.65 largest. The coved register between threads and black block is 33.89 at...

mm, i went here, and just selected the 33 directly threaded, it does not state there are further options. The page you put link for at toolpost doesn't specify which of the other measurements equate to which of the other types of chuck.... You think i am best to send them a picture / diagram...

Chas just beat me to it with the catalogue page... i wish i'd never got this lathe, nothing but problems, an M2 taper light pull friction centre is the only thing i have bought that fits! And that's despite spending over £400 on accessories so far :cry:

Trying to clarify, from the axminster picture, i added a red line where the chuck is, this would make sense, that the register keeps the chuck central and true, and the back of the register does nothing really to align. I have put arrows to what i think is the "aligning factor" In my case...

looking at the post i made when i got the 1" 8TPI (the other wrong chuck for this), the one thing that's missing is the picture of my spindle. However we seemed to come to the conclusion that it was a standard T38. Mine is 33. I have not seen anything advertised as T38, so how do I know which...

Thanks for speedy responses! What i don't get is why a back registration is what's required. Imagine a deliberately exaggerated example, of hanging a hula hoop on the lathe. it could be as tight against the back as you like, however it's not going to run true... or do you mean that the...

I get the chuck on all the way, hence some video wobble while i try to hold the end with my elbow ;-) However the first time i put on, i simply tightened fully (by hand, there is no other way), and it's not true at all. I would have thought the threads would match pretty well, however if not...

Something is not quite right here... I have a 33 dedicated richard sorby chuck. I have a european Scheppach DMT 450 However if you watch the video, you'll see I appear to have significant wobble, and it's not a wobble chuck! http://youtu.be/HNx3IBrPqq8 Before I go back to the toolpost...

These pieces are about two by 3/4. I did try a shooting board, however my plane simply sticks in the piece, or chatters over the surface. Tried with a five and a seven plane that when used normally take perfect fine shavings. I think my frustration came to a head when after trying three...