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I have seen it once before years ago, all the way through, however now i cannot physically watch after he starts to climb "outside"

from http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/D ... doors.html

Heh, think you missed what I was looking at... just wondered who needed to stamp a very large bear!

What kind of person wants or needs to stamp a 400kg wild animal? http://www.spanglefish.com/metalstamps/index.asp?pageid=358140

If you're right handed keep your right eye over the back of the blade. I used to have my head to the side and this corrected saying a curve. If you go off, lower the saw to almost horizontal to start a new kerf, trying to twist it back never works in my experience. Once you have created a few...

by the time it's milled and varnished, nothing left in there. the stock in my shed though, don't want that to get all infested. i see no one mentioned fumigation, so assume that's not standard practice.

There are loads of videos out there, and websites that talk about this, aimed at all levels. in general you could do worse than: 1. check out workshop heaven videos by matt on scary sharpening (bit of up front investment, however clean and fairly idiotproof) Video series Scary sharp guide...

Thanks, That picture i posted is an example, not the real thing. under the bark was rife. however there were holes in the hard wood. I have found it quite difficult to make the rails and stiles for my doors without having some holes. i put them at the back, or where i thought the shaping...

:roll:

exactly. 18x2 = 36, allow 7cm each end of snipe = 50cm total. then cut in half. then trim the two original ends. with a table sled on TS, or a mitre saw, should be dead quick.

The OP was pointing out that there was a sale. Nowadays I take that for granted, I think i get an email every day about sale, every weekend there is one, etc. It would be more efficient to tell me when there is NOT a sale, however i don't think i would ever hear from them again :twisted: I...

cutting to near final dimension is good to relieve stress in the wood. however you need to leave enough for snipe. I always allow 3" each end if i can. in terms of shortest, you have a few challenges. 1. when the piece hits the first roller, the back will lift if it's short, and it can get...

I was making a cabinet from birch ply and wanted matching solid lipping, doors and drawer fronts. I got a piece of birch 4m by 30cm by 6cm. boy was that heavy. handsaws, bandsaws and a couple of helpers, took 2 days to mill what i wanted. I then noticed some small holes in the milled stock...

Not sure travelling from Italy to north Wales for that is going top be practical...

"you're in the right football field"? I was really having a tongue in cheek dig at angelboy, think he didn't see there were 4 vices ;-)

in fact, you don't even need to glue it, although then i find i lose one piece within 0.00002 seconds :D

yes, it could be neater. however if you use different blades for different things, it could change. I find this way easy, quick, and surefire. sometimes these really obvious solutions are just not at all obvious, until you see them, then it's facepalm time....

ah.... one other way then... is to cut your spare stock down the middle, then glue it back together again.

Angelboy is right 4 vices per bench. so 125 / 4 = £31.25, not £30 hope your marking out is more accurate bugbear ;-)

The kerf should have no affect here should it? let's say you have a piece PAR and overlength (as would normally be from the result of planing. say it's 24" and you want 20" piece with lap. you trim one end clean on sled turn it over and cut other end to 20" with a stop in place. now the edge...