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I did a little research, however hard to see how the impact is different than pushing down on screwdriver, have to use one to see i guess, which means buying one! oh no... i have been after the bosch one for a while, as all the reviews, magazines etc rave about it, however i don't like the grip...

Saw one of these on display, and they are so tiny! Would be really nice to use one of these, compared to my old green bosch that weighs about 1kg. not been able to find any reviews anywhere though. Is there something same/ cheaper / better out there? This combo at £140 seems pretty good...

Already tried, was 45 popstage and i will always pay an import fee, so would be £70 by the end, at least. Annoying when £17 in us...

http://www.amazon.com/MA72500-Klenk-Straight-Laminate-Shear/dp/B000QFPD4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1292441231&sr=8-1 £20 in usa, about £70 here. Anyone know where one can get reasonably priced laminate shears in uk? Thanks

Doing my first lamination, boy is that stuff brittle! Saw a great YouTube video where the guy sanded and dusted real well to make sure our was flat then rolled it on, was a bit like honey. I am using bostick 5424/c and as son as I spread it gets really stringy and lumps up a bit, see attached...

I must admit I like the spax type with the star shaped driver,(called t type for some reason), as there is pretty much zero cam out.

Could very well be, i just heard there were some specialists who offered more range, at far lower prices. I guess I will have to compare them. Not sure, do they operate in Italy :mrgreen: I usually order online for delivery to my London office, when i make trips over. However that makes it...

this is one I looked at. Can't order online and site seems rather poor. 'Fraid I tend to judge on that these days...

I am sure i have seen this asked before, however can't find it.. any ideas on where online to purchase all manner and types of screws at a rate somewhat different from the B&Q mark? I googled and found a few really awful sites... Thanks Dave

What's wrong with birch? Anyway I put a back bevel on, ground the cap iron so it actually sits flat on the blade,(it was as the wrong angle so only the edge made contact), and put the cap iron a touch closer. Now just have to learn how to be square to face, and not plane twist into it...

And over the rest of the length the finish is glass smooth...

It is birch. I have checked the seating etc as best as I can, however it's a modern Stanley, so the frog is sitting on eight little contact points, however it seems solid. I guess I know the theory, but am struggling to deduce the reason on this one. Can't feel chatter, but I don't know what...

Set up a record number 7 as best I can and made sure the blade is ultra sharp, but get the tear out shown at the end. The grain does reverse, however I do not get this with qs number 5, or block plane. All are equally sharp. Any ideas? How to check for chatter etc?

Basically there are forces and stresses within wood that cause it to deform when you release those stresses. In my early days I would mill perfect planks of wood to then cut all my parts from. However your should cut all if your parts to some oversize and plane/thickness as the last step. If I...

ok, seems ppl did not get this. a lot of people have posted about making a nice board, then cutting your parts out of it, and others have pointed out this is not a good idea. this is a picture demonstration of that fact. I will add however that i do plane prior to sawing simply to give me a...

ok, i give in, there is an example of someone stamping a bear... (hammer)

Jeez, thanks Jacob for pointing out what was the actual point of my post!! People often say "i need 10 pieces 12" by 4" so I'll plane/thickness one board 5' x 8" so that the p/t process is easier...". This does not always work, and can end up being very off indeed. I was demonstrating how...

Why would that be the case? Where else would battens come from? I took this piece to very close to final size, however the final cut released a huge curve. (turned the picture the right way up now)

Id like to get in the action at some point if still possible?

There have been a few recent threads about how close to final size one should get to before planing and thicknessing. Although it seems tempting to mill an entire board to final thickness and then cut out your parts, you need to get close to final size, but leaving enough for snipe. I need...