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It's part of the starter motor on a snowblower, in a garage in an alpine village, far away from it's Canadian point of origin... I have no idea why my friend has it, I think it was part of some weird purchase. Another friend bought a 20k excavator from ali express for delivery from China, cash...

well, now they would just need the female version of that... this is only to start the snowblower, once started it's diesel..

So this came from a friend, asking me because I have lot of adaptors, being a Brit living in Italy..... Also I have racks of computers, so things like C19 leads... He tells me it's a snowblower. He has a 120v converter already It appears to be Canadian as you worked out, the label on the motor...

Does anyone know what kind of connector this is, I can't find anything anywhere that seems to match!

Yes, the pictures cannot have been reversed (accidentally or otherwise), nor can be reversed back... because then the discs are spinning clockwise, and that isn't happening.... (that's based on the spark patterns). So, the discs are always going anti-clockwise, and cannot go clockwise as that...

You can find photos of people who cut like this. In any case, the general consensus seems to be that Makita got it wrong in their manual.... thanks!

Also... ahem... it's x-lock :D

If you turn them over, they all go the other way... which was kind of my point, why is this grinder being held this way up in the pictures to start with....

Hello future me.. are you saying both the two images in the Makita picture look wrong to you? I think that's what I was saying, but why did they put this in there? Must be a reason! Thanks. Dave Moore.

Just a note that in both cases above, the disc is spinning anti-clockwise. The direction of the blade at contact shown by the red arrow. To my mind both are wrong, because the grinder is simply upside-down... Everything I've ever seen in person, or online, shows the cut being done with the...

When cutting steel bar for example, I have always had the disc rotating away from me and down, with the sparks going behind me. I think this is how I always see others doing it too. I recently found my 9" white label Axminster getting a bit heavy and my 115 Axminster a bit noisy and vibrating a...

Interesting idea, although I think there would be a number of challenges that would make that a much bigger project (and it already took months to just sand/restore the hoops and staves). The hoops hold it all together, so as you opened the barrel, everything would fall apart. So the staves...

Tell me about it, same here.... I'm not sure how that's different, how would I connect that to the cone shaped piece, or even to the tap? It looks like it just has some kind of lip at the end... Yup, it's a bit of a bodge right now. The gap inside the void between the type of fitting you...

I've been restoring a really old wine barrel, for some months now, and finally got it into a decent shape. I want to use it for a water barrel on a downpipe, and as the original was not watertight, put a plastic barrel inside. I wanted to make as much use as possible of the space, and the...

ok, so it sounds like the answer is that some put it in the chuck without jaws, and some with. I felt there was wobble with the pic3 in post 9, and some say try pic4 in post 9.... I will try again for 3, as that seems the most secure. Maybe I just didn't have it quite rotated enough that the...

Sorry, you posted this whilst I was posting mine... So you're method is to use my first idea, no jaws. The space between the check and the workpiece didn't feel quite right here. Maybe this is where the others were referring to a spacer disk? I can't seat the worm all the way down, as it...

Thanks for all the answers chaps. Just to be sure I understand the answers.... Here's a sketch of the chuck with no jaws in, the pink parts are the sliding thingys... Then I tried to put the screw in that, like this However that didn't feel right Then i tried in the jaws. However...

I tried with the slot in the Jaws to prevent it coming out, but there was some play in it. Do you put the thick part in the Jaws?

I can't remember where I got this drive centre from, if it came with the sorby Jaws. If I do mount like this, quite a bit of the screw length is lost. Does it just go in the chuck without the Jaws, or some other method?

I'm using some SHIELD TECHNOLOGY PROTECTOOL WAX. I've never had a problem with stock sliding, this is only for rust prevention. Only problem is, spreading it now is quite hard, it's now 8 deg in the shop!