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Yes, possibly 18th century era.. (4th and 6th along in the photo)

Thanks Jimi, I know what you mean about the Hields mark, very ornate lettering like the old Boots chemists type. Usually the makers marks are much more utilitarian. I was surprised to see it. And its a fantastic tool regardless. Having recently dismantled an old bench to refurb it, I was...

I havent seen the video/film you refer to, but the comment I have quoted here reminded me of a snippet in George Ellis's Modern Practical Carpentery where he describes a way to elinimate your problem. As I recall, he advocates using a burnisher type of tool drawn across the edge of the cap iron...

Unexpected trip to a car boot this morning-after getting some good ash and alder logs from a certain place nearby-resulted in this little set of items 16" x 8" square, looks to be shop made. Victorian style hand-stamped numbers 2 turnscrews, larger one-unknown maker with "1945" & war...

Apologies, I had assumed you were drying logs for to burn in a stove...oops The sun would play havoc with it... How big diameter are they? Anything much more than 3 or 4 inches is going to take an era to dry. I have turned alder, beech and lime (up to 13 inch diameter) on a pole lathe. I got...

And dont leave a bit of sawdust or a shaving in between either (hammer)

I know it!

The other thing you could consider is setting up some sort of fan system inside the garage? I personally have never done it, but have thought about it, maybe get a couple of cheap old fans off ebay or freecycle or whatever, just have them blowing air around or through the stack constantly, maybe...

The problem with keeping logs inside a garage or other sealed building is that you lose a lot of drying power from sun and wind. In fact logs can go mouldy without plenty of air to dry them. One advantage of being inside though is that you could use the existing wall for a lean to structure...

If your able to find a glass shop that has toughened (tempered) glass offcuts in the skip, you did better than Tommy Cooper... :arrow: That is why upvc (vinyl) d/g unit's have to have the toughened glass made to measure-cut to required size first, then toughend and made up into sealed units...

"so it becomes a question of what is being checked against what?" Theres the rub (hammer) Its all relative.

I've said it before and will say it again, tempered (toughened) glass is never flat because of the way it gets processed in the kilns and cooled afterwards. If you were to put your vertitas edge accross it, you would sometimes almost fit a matchstick in the hollows. If your getting a laminated...

If you want FLAT then I sudgest you get a cast iron AAA grade reference plate off ebay. Otherwise dont worry about it, use the topp tiles. FLAT is like the scarlet pimpernel, elusive, the more you try to find it the further away it gets. :shock: £64.50 for a piece of non FLAT glass and a few...

The second pic looks like old pitch pine where the worm has eaten the sap wood, but ignored the tougher heart wood. I have seen the exact same thing on a bench i am refurbing at the moment, which has old pitch pine boards on top. I simply cut out the affected area and repaired it with a sound...

I would agree with the mid 80's for the S&J workhorse. I bought one from a tool shop on the Old Kent Road C1985 when I built a staircase for a mosque in Peckham. It was reasonable at the time, but very clunky compared to the Disstons I now use. Maybe Timex should of gone into saw production?

Thats what I thought, like the ones inside traditional chair frames, or the ones inside staircase stringers. Wood is versatile and easy to work compared to sheet metal You could possibly use a hinge, and keep it fixed open at the 30 degree or 120 degree angle using a strut or something?

They are commonly used to infill modern timber frame buildings, instead of the mud/clay/brick/lath etc that was used in previous eras of our history. So at least in that application, the oak frame is creating the structural integrity. I watched once when they were craned onto a small cramped...

I have just done a few tentative experiments with ebonising, using iron acetate ?? Steel wool/vinegar. Pole-lathe turned chestnut plate The timbers that worked best in terms of blackness in my basic experiment were sweet chestnut and mahogany, the chestnut came out velvety matt like charcoal...

When furniture makers issue an "artists statement" they have lost me...! I am not particularly struck with his forms, but one thing I definately do like about his work though is the quality of the excellent ebonised finishes. He evidently uses poplar a lot and gets a fantastic deep black, almost...

Mr Spanton got banned for being too "political" :roll: Good thing too :lol: Reading this "thread" is entirely depressing I never knew of any instance when argumentativeness ever changed anyones deeply held views. Just saying....