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Not forgetting the original stropping compound, (silver sand and tallow) that the labourers used to sharpen their scythes and sicklles before carburnudum was invenyted :idea: I mixed the jap dust with oil, makes a sort of an abrasive oil paint. Keeps it from blowing about :)

You made a good choice. Jap water stones are too fragile. I personally use a norton india stone for everything now, chisles, plane irons, axe's, drawknife-and it works great for knives too. I have bothe the mora's in Rob's article, excellent blades. I personally mostly use a home made knife with...

Bakuma shark nail bars, cant be beat...!

I've tried that, not scored yet... :D Have you considered discarded kitchen unit doors, they are often oak, birch, cherry etc. The older ones are usually lanimated solid wood (not vennered mdf or ply)

I have used it as well, solvol autosol, on english elm (knife handle) to get a fairly decent gloss after several coats of danish oil (after cabinet scraping, fine sanding, burnishing with an oak rod). I only used one application of solvol, maybe further use would of given a more intense gloss? I...

£180 for a taiwanese plastic nylon bag??? :lol: Over designed, too many superfluous details, too many bits to get broken, and at that price someones going to thieve it in no time... Maybe try and get an ordinary traditional bass instead, if it aint broke dont fix it! Or make a traditional...

Nice looking "victorian minimal" castings, I never saw one like that before. I'm guessing its some sort of pattern makers vice from a railway works?

I suspect if you make up a lanimmated base, it will soak up water (lube from from the scary method) and then it will mang up the lanimations and make the surface uneven..... Yes, I'd get a 40 mm or thereabouts thick piece of granite, put rubber underneath to stop it sliding about. I wasnt...

A sheet of perspex will get manged up in no time with grit particles. Plus its soft and bendy so will rely on whatever you rest it on for a support. If I was to use the scare sharp method, I would get a piece of granite worktop from a kitchen fitter. Toughened glass is NOT flat, the way it is...

I once found one totally by accident buried in the mud at Southend beach, stood on it and wondered what is that under my foot....

and there was me thinking milbro made catapults.... :ho2

Some of them do powder coating as well, definately worth a look

The other possibility is get them shotblasted by a mobile operator, (or unbolt them and take them to a firm that does shotblasting) then prime/undercoat etc.

I use 2 thin coats of the zinsser primer, with a light sand after the first coat, works fine. Craig and rose acrylic eggshell is a nice paint to use as well

I found the bahco profcut (orange blade with black writing) to be the best hard point, from what I remember of the time before I started to refurb and sharpen my own saws. I think it had a slight amount of set on the teeth (most hardpoints then DIDNT). Also the blade was thicker and stronger...

I dont think a tool chest will be living outdoors.. :D I use that combo on painted furniture for indoors, for exterior thingss (eg windows, doors) I use oil based primer and undercoat

I usually use zinsser 1-2-3 bullseye white acryliic primer, normally under farrow & Ball oil based paint, never had any problems!

Because theres some good stuff on there that you cant get any place else...? nice set of chisels there, did you "bud" for them then? 8)

Just wondering if anyone has used it to buy stuff? Not knowing Swedish, not sure what is what on there site, wether they will sell worldwide or just within Sweden etc. There is always some good axe heads for sale on there.. :)

Hi Corneel :D I did indeed watch the video earlier this morning, fascinating viewing. It occured to me that the way the chipbreaker works is sort of like the way a cleaving brake works to split logs, where you control the degree of runout so the split goes centrally and you end up with 2 equal...