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Do you use the lump hammer to flatten your slate?

LOL Mike if you want to qoute, do it correctly. Please dont mis quote what I said I did not say 'A better quality of work was done before carborundum was invented' That is your comment not mine :) What I did say was "Joiners and cabinetmakers managed to get decent edges for doing mortices and...

Mike, you started getting uppity "mate" :roll: when you innsinuated I was, basically, lying. There was no call for that, I thought this was a forum to exchange ideas and so forth, perhaps I am mistaken? I was merely attempting to relate how a small experiment worked for me, thats about it. If...

Are you calling me a liar? Seriously? I do know my own mind mate! I am not arguing in favour of norton oilstones, lets clear that up. I would happily try the round bevel technique on slate or other sorts of solid resilient stone. Joiners and cabinetmakers managed to get decent edges for doing...

On reflection I think the jap stones, for me personally, would be more useful to me ground up into a fine stropping paste. Perhaps you could form a rounded bevel with them, but frankly, I cant be bothered any more. I had forgotten what it was like to press into the resilient norton stone without...

Your welcome Jacob. :) I mean even the tormek, which can produce decent edges, needs maintenance. That jolly old wheel has to be trued regular and a lot of the wheel rather qiuckly ends up as a bunch of slurry dust in the collecting tray. But you can of course get replacement wheels, £70 or...

According to Mr Seller's video he is using coarse (250) Medium (800) and fine (1200) diamond plates, I think they are eze type?

well Jacob, to be fair I gave his method a go and I was amazed at how well it worked, particularly on a 1st time try out. I used a bog standard norton abandoned around 6 years ago in favour of the ubixquitous water stones. (1200? grit, not sure, cuts fast though) lubed with white spirit, then...

Jacob do you have any video available where you demonstarate your hooning method?

I'd go for a dual purpose one-I use a smallish (3 foot) bar, chisel one end point the other. It is fantastic to start post holes (if your driving posts in afterwards with a maul) it lines them up in the hole position really well. I just push the bar in, rotate it , push in deeper, rotate it...

The reason I made a point of asking ebay sellers if there was any evidence of hammer flattening, is because if you can see it (usually rough crescent moon shaped dents) it wasnt very well done, in fact when the blade has been done like that they sometimes crack at that point...Maybe its not hard...

We were at cross purposes, I had in my minds eye the sort I own with 8 seperate cutting edges (umbrella shape?) I have another that is a perfect cone with just one cutting edge. The snail ones seem exotic! Thinking about it, it should be possible to simply file 8 new edges on an "umbrella"...

I agree with the previous poster. The design is weak, it really needs another rail along the bottom, not just for additional strength and solidity, but water is going to wick right up into the endgrain of the t&g boards as it is in the drawing, they wont last as long. If there is an additional...

I have had some fantastic saws off ebay (BIG disston rip, S&J 10tpi, disston 7tpi crosscut plus others) and I use them all the time. I always asked a few questions of the prospective seller, to at least try to avoid disasters EG Is the blade badly dented, kinked, cracked? Is there any evidence...

I have often wondered about this... Funnily enough only yesterday I was studying how plane floats can be made, where the teeth are file seperately, where they use a blue stain to show how far to file down. Perhaps the countersink needs to becarefully rotated along the side of a grinding wheel...