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What I did want to sak you Davy is, The breaker i've bought is made by Wylex whilst the C/U is a hager. The breaker will fit in just fine but does it matter if it's a different make or should I have waited and sent for a hager one? cheers, jon.

The chart has a list of circuits down the left hand side ie. lights, sockets, cooker etc, and then from left to right it has boxes that are filled in by the spark which are, no. of points, type, rating, short circuit capacity, live, CPC, continuity, insulation, resistance, earth loop impedance...

there is a heading that say's overcurrent device then next to that it say's circuit conductors then next to that it say's test results. Is this it?

OUT WITH THE SUPERSAW, IN WITH THE UUUUNISAW!!!!! jonathan

Below the Ze at origin it has PSSC but there is nothing written down, the spark has left it blank. jon.

I'll have a look, 2 mins

Welcome back Davy, How would one find the prospective fault current and are you basically saying that the 10Ka breaker i've bought wont make any difference and it's OK? jonathan.

The Dewalt DW700, 701 and 707 are some of the best saw's on the market in my opinion, we have two 707's and an Elu at work and when they come to the end of their life, they will be replaced with the same again. Jonathan.

Lee, Does the motor on your unisaw say 12.4 amps? If so, it will be the same motor as in my saw and it seems you have a 32 amp breaker fitted to run it. I have just bought a 16 amp class C breaker from screwfix this morning. I had the choice of either a 6Ka or a 10Ka and I bought the 10Ka. Does...

Thanks for your help in this matter Davy. I'll let you know how the class C mcb performs. I would just like to point out to other forum members that this thread is not a guide on how to connect your machines, it is just a discussion on a problem i'm having with my saw and any electrical work...

There's only one C/U in the house which is located in the garage and the outlet for the saw is about 1.75 metre's below it. jon.

Davy, I feel quite confident enough to fit the class C breaker myself and alway's ensure that it's isolated first. I know that a qualified electrician should do this but I feel it's unnessesary to pay for one when I can do it myself. I don't expect you to recommend me doing it myself but but i'm...

Davy, I have the installation schedule with me and there's a part that say's Ze at origin and the spark has written down .07 ohms. Does this help? jon.

I'll have a look, two mins.

The C/U has been earthed to a copper pipe running next to it. If it helps, I can nip out to the garage and fetch the paper chart that was completed when the unit was installed. It's a new house only 4 years old and theres all the correct info written down in the C/U. jon.

Davy, The cable i'm using is 2.5 I think and the distance from the C/U to the 16 amp socket is no more than two metres, I dont know what you mean by the earthing type though. The motor is a three horse rated at 12.4 amps. cheers, jonathan.

So basicall what you are saying is get a spark out to test it first? Are you? and how much would they roughly charge me? cheers, jon.

Davy, what is your take on why it keeps tripping then? I've just been reading some literature on MCB's and Bob's reply does tally with what i've found. cheers, jon.

Looks a reasonable solution to me Bob. Thanks for your help, you may have just saved me the cost of fetching out a spark. I'll also let the trician know how he could have mentioned this to me. many thanks, i'll let you know how it go's. jonathan.

The make is HAGER jon.