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Two push sticks for me. I just tend to make them out of offcuts of whatever sheet goods I have. 18mm+ thickness, couple of inches wide, maybe 18 inches long. Cut one end at a 45degree angle, then take a right angled notch out of that to create a basic birdmouth. Job's a good 'un!

Thanks. I had another look this afternoon and I'm going to take a belt sander to the wall for the worst bit (approx 20cm by 20cm) and repaint afterwards, and the rest I will do with caulk. There's always a new lesson to be learnt!

Right, I could do with some more advice please from you learned folk! 2 issues with doing the fitting that I have encountered, and one lesson learnt. Issue 1 - about midway down the wall (recently skimmed) there is a bulge of a few mm out of flat. I can see this causing problems in terms of...

First reality check of the process for me today - none of my walls seem truly vertical, and the one room I've had skimmed has a couple of bulges in the skimming so I'm not quite sure how to fit the architrave around the door on a non-flat surface. More reading required!

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Really appreciate all the replies, thank you.

Would I not recess them into both? I have 35mm of oak to go into so should have plenty of grip!

Great thanks. My intent for length was to measure up eah vertical separately, aligning to a horizontal laser level. I'll use 15mm as my clearance from the floor for the assumed door position then, thanks. Feeling like I might be good to go now! Cheers for all the replies.

Thanks both. @Noel not quite in afraid, the frame will go to the floor but I am working out dimensions to allow a gap at the bottom of a standard height door. @Noel and @basssound that's exactly what I'm doing, and planning to use plugs from offcuts to cover the screw heads.

I'm on the home straight with my lounge now but have a new skill to learn - fitting door frames and the door. I'm happy with the approach for all hinges thanks to feedback on here, and having done my research on the approach to the door and frame itself I think I know what I'm doing...but I...

This is one of the reasons I love my Dewalt - their shadow system makes this sort of trimming an absolute doddle. Nice improvisation!

A with two pegs potentially? I'm trying to understand where the loadings will be, there will be people better informed than I.

I've got the drawers on the other side of the saw bench to do still so I might do those with ball bearing slides to compare.

I now understand why ball bearing drawer slides are so popular after doing some drawers for my workshop using standard roller slides. Absolutely pain in the rear to get nicely aligned fronts with the play in the slides themselves. Grrr. Rant over, got the job done and I'm mostly pleased with it...

I think I'm going to have to go the AWO route and ignore the colouring difference. This will change over time I expect. I don't mind if they are veneered but I want a decent quality piece of work. There have been some really helpful suggestions and food for thought so far, so thank you to...

How strange. No idea I'm afraid! I've found one place that I might enquire and see what they're like, otherwise I think I'm going to end up building my own. Maybe I should have got AWO skirting and frames, but then again european looks much nicer to my eyes.

If you click in the top right where your account is you can go to private messages and it will be there. Starting to wonder if I need to bite the bullet and make the doors...

Bugger. What about decent veneer and kipping rather than solid?

Thanks, but again they're AWO. All the other woodwork is European so once oiled I'm concerned they will look really quite different.

I'm still getting my workshop up and running in the new place so I have no wish to go about building my own doors at the moment, although I'll fit them myself. I'm after a glazed European oak interior door (several of them), and most of what I find seems to be thin AWO veneer with minimal...