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Calculator was in bloody radians! A-D 847.8mm C-F 576mm

A-D is 1132.9mm C-F is 985.2mm

Whilst I agree with the sentiments here about 3D printing being great for small prototyping, be aware that ALM printing will give a weaker plastic product than injection moulding. From a formal perspective ALM is also not suitable for foodstuffs due to the uneven finish. It depends entirely on...

Steve, with regards to the lost photos, are you filling the card each time? Some cameras have a setting where when they run out of space they will overwrite the oldest content. Potential culprit?

Variation on the above advice but fundamentally the same. Get yourself a triton router, if you can find a tra001 secondhand then you're laughing as they're great table routers. For extraction just use a hoover connected to the back of a fence. If you want a pre-made fence and table solution...

Lovely. I've got the Axminster jig (the generic design you can find in a lot of places) and the amount of setup time required to get it spot on is crazy. Definitely coveting a leigh jig...

It does. If anyone needs me I'll be back in my corner. Thanks Pete :).

But the saw isn't perpendicular to those rails. Am I having a serious red wine induced brain failure here?

Why the lock screws on the saw bars? I would have expected them on the horizontals unless I have misunderstood the design.

Interesting. Doesn't bother me, still private, they had the data anyways.

Stop planting ideas and options in my head! Bad Inspector!

Which piece? Love the idea, I've seen that before, don't know why it didn't spring to mind. I'll do some reading up on how best to reinforce/brace the lower section. After months of building the workshop I'm really excited to finally be ready to start making bits for the house! Thank you :).

Hmmm, good point. It's definitely too long in its current guise but your comment has made me wonder if actually I use that second (machined) board as I could cut the top part off without impacting the figuring (and if anything it would be more consistent across the length of the board then). I...

Picture of the live edge attached. Although I've just tidied up all the rough sawn stuff I got from BH and discovered this (other pic) gorgeous piece underneath. Definitely going to have to think up a project to use that!

I'd never even considered cutting grooves, thanks Mike. It's a through and through board, live edge both sides. Now I just need to decide on how I want the legs!

Right, context. I've got a lovely slab of live edge oak with some pipping etc. Currently approx 2m x 60cm x 1inch (got to love mixing units). The target product is a coffee table approx 1m x 60cm. Now this piece is thinner than I'd usually think of (2") so I just wanted to check if I needed...

As always you've tipped up a massively helpful post, thanks custard. I do mooch around the yards whenever I go but some things I really do struggle with, and sometimes I get an oddball piece that I want to identify.

As per title really, I've got a couple of pieces of mystery timber in the workshop, and recently I've really struggled to ID between AWO and European oak, so I figured I should make an effort and get something to educate myself with. Any recommendations? Cheers.

Lack of fence and his other hand being too close to the blade for my liking. The rest is irrelevant. Definitely seen far worse! Still wouldn't do it :p.

You can do it but use long screws. You will still find over time that they develop some lateral movement. Better would be to screw some blocks to the side of the legs and then through them at 90 degrees into the base - no end brain that way.