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One of the things I've rapidly learnt on here, despite coming with an "I know nothing, and have much to learn" approach, is that there are always new ways of doing things that I've never even considered. I'm putting up some battening (2x1) for shelving, and will be wrapping this within a small...

...and then realising you don't have all the kit! I said I'd do a few bits and pieces for a friend later in the week including putting up some shelves/desks that they want from a length of worktop they have spare. No worries. Need to buy a worktop jig. Knew that, £25 delivered from ChippyShop...

Now what you've got there mate, is a steel plate, an 'ole, and some pipes. Amazing what you get in a lawn, not sure what weedkiller will make that go away...

That looks lovely Eric, where from if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks guys, I'll size the batten down as you suggest. I wasn't going to route if at all possible. I was going to add adhesive as you suggested. I never have much luck finding the studs, time to break out a small pointy screwdriver!

Loading and corner question. I haven't seen the material yet, just what a friend has described to me (they've asked me to go round next week and fit it). U-shaped/3 wall run of worktop. Legs at the front. Plasterboard wall. I'm intending to run a 2x3 batten along the wall, fixed with metal...

Good counsel in here, thanks. I would never have tried the hot glue method without it being suggested, I never would have thought it strong enough. Part of the issue is I've got a mentality to make fairly big recesses, so I need to stop being overkill! Cheers.

I've got a set of Axminster button jaws that I've been meaning to try out, but was wondering how good they are for the complete bowl turning process. The reason I'm asking is because I have some blanks that are already rounded and 100% decent wood, so I'm loathe to waste material turning a...

Sorry bugbear, I mean replacing the t-bolt and nut with metric if I can source an appropriate t-head.

Joyous. I might just replace the whole lot with equivalent metric ones if I can get something to run in the t-slot, or if not then I'll machine up some t-blocks to be drilled and tapped, and bolt it into the runner that way around. Bloody imperial!!!

Thanks for that counsel. I've dropped Derek Pyatt an email to see if he can advise/supply.

Just finishing setting up the bowl turning attachment on my Coronet, and I've discovered I'm a bolt short. Thankfully I have one of them so I know what I'm after for the second one, but I'm not doing well at establishing what it is!! It's a square head bolt. The head is 25.5mm square (i.e. 1")...

Pictures?

1251 or 1751 would be my suggestions depending on the reach you need.

Broad flat screwdriver or metal nailfile or similar - place under the lower edge of the key and lever it up. The key will now pop up off the board. Underneath you will find a rubber switch cover, and a metal bar clipped into the key. Prod the rubber switch and see if it works. If so, then the...

True, but as you rightly say, that's if it's not setup and used correctly. I've used them for years without any issues - my view tends to be that most items in the workshop will gladly chop/de-glove/scalp/blind me given half the chance, it's all about being sensible.

What usage do you envisage? That's the key question here. If you don't have a pre-existing router setup (and you get a dado stack), and you don't have a table saw, then I'd definitely say the RAS because the versatility it provides will be of use to you (I've got a Dewalt 1251 I picked up for...

What's the exact model of your tablet please? What happens/what is the error when you say you lose the use of it?

If I read your sketches right, what you're describing are half lap joints which are very strong and glue will be fine. As with most joints, the precision of the fit has a great impact on the strength, so make them as good a fit as you can.

Thanks guys, loads of interesting points in here. The stock I've got is already PAR. Sounds like my best plan is buying thicker boards from somewhere (e.g. 1.5") and have them sawn and planed into two thinner boards. At least that way I'm not paying for waste, even with a machining charge...