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My local JTF has rolls of the non-slip matting for a few quid, I use that in all my tool drawers.

Masking tape, Stanley knife to cut the top veneer, then saw to finish the job. There are many ways. If you want a truly "perfect" edge then you might struggle with ply, it depends what you view as "no splits".

Transatlantic's is a nice easy approach if you just want a linear taper.

50 quid! Thanks all for the suggestions, looks like epoxy and a pin is going to be the best way.

As per the title really - I'm replacing a very small plastic wing knob on an M8 rod with a Bristol lever to make things a bit easier, but whereas the old one has a locking grub screw, this will be bonded on. Any suggestions on what would be best other than standard 2 part epoxy? Cheers, Rick

Yes, from memory you can edit it under styles or schemes. Sorry for the vague instructions I'm not at a computer at the moment.

I have no idea how they're going to last, but for rough and ready jobs I've got some Rolson F clamps I picked up for about £3 each for 600mm ones, and so far they seem to be ok. I realise that's akin to swearing around here, and they're definitely cheap, but they seem to work. Always on the...

Angle grinder, rawl plugs, job done. If you're expecting significant traffic on the steps you might want to use M8 anchors instead of rawl plugs.

Mallet and drift is what I do on the tailstock on mine, but for the headstock you should have the thread protector fitted that you can use with a lever?

Why not go second hand? £200 will get you a secondhand TS200 or Kity 419 (without extras). Solid saws and easy to find accessories for.

Made about 18 precise 90degree clamping templates out of 2x12mm birch ply. Boring, but the precision was satisfying :).

What was it like to turn?

Where from?

If you're talking 2x1 and 2x2 material then yes, no issue. You'll get a more helpful response if you could share a bit more information though :).

Great find, thanks! I'll definitely get in touch with them once I've used up my current stock.

Would you bond those to the uprights or the shelves? Just thinking of movement etc.

Feast your eyes on my artistic masterpiece! http://m.imgur.com/gallery/fiG9x

It's a fair copy, my descriptions are rubbish! By open sided I meant that they are not solid sides like a bookcase. I will scribble and put a picture up.

Reflection time. I'm having second thoughts about the mitred strips because they'll only be partially fixed to the shelves, and then would be slotted into dados on the uprights, making them the load points. Instead, what I'm thinking of doing is having the 4 uprights with dados cut, shelves...

Looks like an excellent table build, fancy doing a guide?