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Sounds about right. Ref Bod's comment, I wouldn't necessarily get a T11, but definitely worth ensuring they have standard Trend fitting holes.

Hmm, I reckon a palm router might struggle on tougher hardwoods. That's only a guess though. I find the jig really good to use ONCE you've set it up, which was one of the most frustrating things I've ever done in a workshop. I now keep the jig and my router with the bit permanently attached...

What size is your jig? I've got the Axminster one and use an old Elu MOF96 in mine, works a treat. Most jigs take 1/4" bits, and to be honest I'd probably find my Mv12 too big and clunky to use on the jig. Stay small would be my vote.

Just tried again, don't know if my technique was poor the first time but seems spot on now. Inch and a half wide translucent curl :). Good end to a Sunday!

Lapping a plane takes a while doesn't it?! I'm glad I don't have to do that very often. I've now tuned my Stanley Bailey no4, with my copy of Sam Allen at my right hand. I'm really really pleased with how it has turned out, but for some reason I can't get full width shavings - they're...

Why not get old English second hand? I've got a coronet major, great little lathe.

Make your last couple of passes very shallow to minimise the effects of snipe.

Have you checked the brushes?

DPD are always the best I find. Collect+ are very convenient for sending, never received. myHermes are godawful to receive from, and they have no depot to collect from.

This is exactly why I wanted to post on here :). I'll see how I go with Sam Allen for now. Thanks one and all.

Thanks for taking the time for such an extensive post. I think the worry I have with the Internet is that you never know fi you're looking at good content or bad. Forums help because the number of commenter on one topic valance out.

Cheers, ordered myself a copy of Sam Allen's book for a whole £2!

I'm (slowly) getting to enjoy using my hand plane more and more (Stanley No4) and have just grabbed a No5 from this forum. I'm aware that from a technical viewpoint my understanding of setup, technique, and sharpening (especially WHEN to sharpen) is very poor - I've found the two links below...

There seems to be a lot of fear in here about machinery rather than a healthy respect and sensible working practice. Hands on the piece or hands on pushblocks are both safe ways to do this activity, the planer isn't going to suddenly swallow the whole thickness of the piece. Ref push sticks...

Hmmm, how about 63mm hose to a 100mm gulper? Not ideal, but it'll reduce the issue with lugging the hose around if that is your issue.

All front faces are now clad in oak, and the small drawers are all made except for their oak fronts. Slowly taking shape! Picture here https://www.dropbox.com/s/vp0150n1xp5xe ... 3.jpg?dl=0

I can't help with your original question I'm afraid, but my word of caution in using a chip extractor to hoover the floor is that you need to be sure there are only wood bits on the floor. Putting up (e.g.) bits of metal will damage the extractor over time as they impact the blades.

Try trials to identify what you can recover, then cough up. In future I'd suggest using a cloud service so you don't have to worry about things like this :).

I'm not quite sure what you mean furnman if I'm honest. The guard should be moved sideways to allow the workpiece to pass, and the pads just give you enough surface friction to be able to push the piece along without running the risk of dropping your fingertips into the blade at the last point...

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. They don't have a saw it's just a warehouse :).