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I tend to do the usable portion of the blade, so less than an inch normally.

Yup, I'm opening this can of worms!! I'm starting to get into restoring hand planes, and recently was given a batch of 13 which I'm working through. Currently I'm using some flat glass and waterstones. Two issues with that - firstly I'm chomping through waterstones when lapping the blades...

Have a look at my old thread - I built a table top around the Triton workcentre top which was a really effective way of doing it on a budget and I'm really pleased with the results.

Brass brush and then Hammerite for me if it's going to be used in damp conditions. If not then I'd just brush it and then give it a wipe with an oily rag.

One thing I'd suggest which I did in my single garage setup was to have a three piece thicknessing setup. I have my lunchbox thicknesser mounted on a piece of 18mm MDF. This has locating dowels such that I can add a 1.2m piece of MDF on both infeed and outfeed with rollers fixed at the matching...

Great thanks, plenty to look through there. It's got a full selection of cutters included, it really is near mint. I'm moving house next year to a place with a larger workshop (some would call it a double garage!) and one of the things on my list is to make myself a nice bench with holdfast...

I've been given lovely present for Christmas from my grandfather, a near mint condition Record 50A combination plane complete in the original wooden box. I'll confess that I've never used one before, so my question is what operations would you view this as the go-to took rather than a...

I've got a 96e that is great, and my old man still has a 96. They're both in really good nick. HOWEVER - they've both been cared for since new. Go for the Trend - it's a 1/4" router so you'll outgrow it after a while but they're handy for some things. I have a 1/4" router permanently set up for...

Absolutely fine with the ducting, but I'm not looking to modify the entire extraction unit at this point which is what it would take to put an fm300 fan unit up there.

You've lost me on ceiling mounting it. I'm not clear what benefit that would give over the footprint it takes up at the moment?

Yea, good point. I stuck with 100mm in this setup as I have a splitter and two 100mm runs but there will be no need to do that in the new place. Good reminder, thanks!

The problem I'd have would be that by the time I've insulated it then that's another 100mm height on he floor. Could be a bit much!

It's existing, just a single skinned brick double garage at the moment.

Thanks both. If I can avoid running a separate extraction system then I will, but I'll admit it would be a neat and tidy way to do things, and I could easily automate the start of both them. Any reason you went for the Sheppach rather than CamVac or similar? Some interesting videos on hffcom...

Right, planning for my new double garage continues. I'm going to put a decent sized tablesaw in a central position in there, probably a Wadkin or similar. What I'm trying to figure out is the best way to run extraction to it without create a great big trip hazard along my floor. My current...

No, treated timber flush to brick.

Current wall is single skin brick. Proposed wall will be (inside) osb - dpm - treated timber with insulation - brick.

I'm in the process of moving home, so my planning brain is going in to overdrive. Top of the list (of course!) is how to change the single skin detached double garage into a great workshop. I've asked questions on the general approach in a different thread, but now my queries are quite specific...

You don't mention what gauge engine you're thinking of! Are you talking 5"/7.5" or something larger?

Thanks all. Sounds like rockwool for the ceilings and I need to do my research on what insulation boards for the floor! To the guys running dehumidifiers - do you not risk drying the wood too much and then having it move significantly when in a non-controlled room as a final product?