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I remember a Tokai advert in Sounds causing huge consternation. It featured a photo of a young woman apparently pleasuring herself with one of their instruments and was captioned "Tokai is coming!"

I seem to have a knack for finding questions for which there are no answers.

We had - and used - polarising filters long afore we had digital cameras. You can minimise reflections by pressing the lens right upto the window. Another trick we used when photographing subjects in aquariums and the like was poke the lens through a hole in some black card.

Have a look on youtube for Timothy Wilmotts rolling-folding MFT table. His design houses Festool Systainers however it would be easy to adapt to incorporate regular drawers or cupboard. https://benchworks.be/en/projects/mf-tc-multifunction-tool-cart/

My workshop is a single garage with an up and over (U&O)door. In an ideal world, I'd live on a farm in the middle of nowhere with ample outbuildings to convert into the 'perfect' workshop but as that's never going to happen, next best thing would be to replace the U&O with a pair of wooden...

I have the 7485 Flexvolt version too. I bought it off another forum member last year and at the time I thought I got a good deal; now I think I should have wore a mask when I collected it from him! I guess it comes down to what you're used to but this "weigh" better than either the Charnwood...

Slightly bizarre this but having done that little job I thought I ought to reinstall the riven knife and blade guard assembly which I did earlier today. I'm not getting some binding when I make a cut and having removed and re-sat the whole assembly several times I turned to that great oracle...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-St ... 2749.l2649

Couldn't resist a test cut and yes, it seemed to do what I hoped it would. Think I could do with a wider sheet of metal so I can move the Magswitch further left but guess I'm going to be restricted by the distance from blade to mitre stop as there's now a 2.5mm step.

Okay, hadn't planned to but decided to tackle it today. I started by using double-sided tape to hold the slider to the plate so I could get the position for the pilot holes which I then drilled out. Perhaps not the best idea as it seems some of filings for into the threads making it a bit tight...

Thanks all. Been sidetracked but will look at it again and get back to you.

Reading that again, will it make a difference that I need to screw through the bar into the plate? The bar's already countersunk and needs to be on the underside of the plate.

Thank you

I have a 2.5mm sheet of stainless steel that I want to attach to an aluminium mitre bar that came pre-drilled with 6mm threaded holes. How do I best go about it? Can I simply drill a slightly smaller pilot hole and let the bolt cut it's own thread? O do I need to use a tap to cut a thread in the...

Give me a shout when you're ready.

Richard, sounds okay to me. Sorry, another message I can't reply to.

Screws and clamp accounted for so £100 for the K5 and remaining accessories.

Okay, now I have two messages, none showing in my inbox nor is there a link in the notification email to reply.

If anyone would be interested in the system without the weight of the screws £120 posted.

This one is definitely woodwork related! Time has come for my Kreg K5 system to find a new home where it can be put to more use than it's ever had from me. This is essentially the Master system with a wealth of extras- from a time when I still had some wealth! In addition to the basic outfit...