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, as above, yacht varnish will hold up better than an external oil finish in the long term. If you want a really good one you could do worse than try: Le Tonkinois Varnish, search it if you want to find it, mail order only i think. Sean

You might want to consider something like Zinser or as you mention an ultra grip primer, made exactly for going over an old finish and providing a better key for the new finish. With kitchens going up and down a lot in temperature it'll definitely test the adhesion of any coatings that aren't...

Dunno what the euro conversion is, do the maths i suppose. Anyway, here's a bunch of info (if i can post links?) about this sprayer, fill yer boots! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT08-s_EfSM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0pqTZ9m ... re=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXbWcFy0 ...

A desk suggests regular work use, not that great with Danish Oil unless your careful, it'll work but you won't have something you can finish and forget about. I reckon you'll be recoating every 6 months or so, hot cups and scrapes will take their toll more with Danish Oil, but less so with a...

If i had your doors and wanted them all natural/old pine looking you've got to unify them in colour and appearance. Don't know how your fixed but i'd either: a/ Bleach and Finish: get a sack/big bottle of caustic soda from somewhere, carefully mix in a bucket and generously apply with a sponge...

If you want cheap and ok quality - search on this for around £150: Earlex HV5000UKP Professional Spray Station HV5000 ..not as many controls as the above options but i'd guess more than ok for your needs, i've used them for years, you can even do a 'piano finish' with this machine - though...

I've mixed oil based stains (diy colron stains mainly) with Danish Oil on oak furniture to blend old and new parts and the results were ok ish, it took on the colour but you have to watch for darkness in the grain as small pigment or dye puddles can occur with the oil carrying unabsorbed colour...

thanks cornucopia, just the sort of input i need. Stripping is of course tedious - and i do it all the time on furniture so am keen to bypass it in this instance if possible, for time and price reasons. I'm unsure of the exact F&B paint type, suffice to say it will be hand painted though. The...

I have a client who wants their kitchen revamped by painting the doors/drawers and fixtures. The softwood units currently have a modern clear lacquer finish (in good condition) that may or may not be removed before they are refinished. I'm a wood finisher by trade but have not had any...

that above sounds like great advice :)

a couple of things that come to mind is that you probably won't get away with colouring patches locally if your referring to skimming these knots off - you'll only get a a uniform look by treating the floor as a whole IMO. Your weathered look I guess is probably quite even in tone (whatever that...

i'm no oil expert but a couple of the popular oils for wood - say boiled linseed or Danish oil both have drying agents I think, where i'd guess white oil doesn't so that's a consideration to make, it would eventually dry i'd have thought, but it could rettain a greasiness and attract dirt more...

Hi Nellie, your posts made interesting reading as i'm a finisher of some 20 years but without much paint experience - though i did used to caustic dip when i was a lad! The wire wooling til the piece 'shone' is a good tip, so too is the dark waxing after the clear, also using several colours...

Hi, i do a lot of lacquered and painted mdf work for carpenter clients. There are many suppliers of paint and lacquer ( i use Morrells who may have a branch/outlet near you). I simply use pre cat lacquer, which comes as either clear lacquer or white paint, all with different sheen ratings from...

sand with 120 grit, then 240, best stain for softwood is usually a water based stain (many on the market, liberon are good) white is especially good for reducing the orange/redness. Then finish with whatever really: Varnish (thinned at first), French Polish (shellac), Danish Oil, or even some...

ive always had an old vacuum cleaner for after sanding duty, they used to make those long bristle attachments which i don't see much anymore, i realise this is a luxury but it's the best solution i've found, grain is clean and corners are clean.

im interested too to hear if anyone's involved in the 'chabby chic process' on a commercial level, i imagine it's very variable, i understand that the oil based F & B type coloured paints are to be sought over the waterbased for better end results, and quite often a differing colour...

Faced with what you've described i'd have a fine steel wool ball dipped in White Spirit and a good supply of dry rag to hand, daub on the WS generously and leave to dilute/dissolve and rub with vigour with the dry rags, you'll get 90% off usually, that's my take on dewaxing, awful job!

I limed a stripped oak (veneered) dining table a few months ago and after several test pieces realised i'd get the best result from opening up the grain with a softish wire brush, staining (if applicable), sealing and finishing - and then hitting it with the liming wax. Was initially thinking...

trying to stay on topic here: what are the alternatives (that you can purchase) other than using Meths to make your own french polish then, anyone? Sean