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Yes, those shelves have come out nicely. The staining has worked particularly nicely. I like the two little shaker (?) Pegs on the end; I worry that anything hung on there might end up in the cat / dog bowl though :lol:

I presume some of the wooden planes with double irons predate Stanley metal bodied planes. What was the principal purpose there ? Stiffening, chip breaking, or something else ?

CC does have a point. It is far from a general purpose woodworking magazine. A strong conservation bias and of course American style. But it does have a fair bit to say about the techniques of hand making, in the era when handmade was the norm. Things we have discussed on here like overcut...

I got my copy of issue #2 yesterday. I've only had time for a quick glance, but there seems to be a lot of chairmaking, and even a pole lathe in there ! And a lot of photographs of period dovetail joints. I'm looking forward to a good read.

You could at least ditch the protracter and use a large square with 60,30 and 90 degree angles, which would get you 120 and 150 degrees probably more accurately. Though the compass / trammels is probably a better way.

I'm with you there. In a well insulated house, keeping the whole house warm isn't too costly. In a poorly insulated house, heating just part of it is a really good way of encouraging condensation in the cold rooms.

The legs look more like ash to me ? I enjoyed the video, despite it being a bit power toolish for my liking. The scenes of shovelling snow reminded me of the BBC slow TV programme about The Chairmaker - Jim Steele. He was bemused by them cutting to shots of his wife hanging out the washing ...

You mentioned welded - are you drilling near the weld ? That can leave the hardness a bit unpredictable.

I presume this is the same Acorn as Acorn planes, a brand of J. A. Chapman bought by Stanley and later used as a second quality brand. I think the old Acorn Chapman planes were usually black, the later Stanley Acorn ones a maroon colour. I have a #4 and a #3 of the older style black Acorn...

Perhaps he's thinking it might just be strong enough to support a game of dominos if you're lucky ? If so, +1 from me. A lot depends on how substantial the material is to hide an adequate joint in it. Thicker is win-win, because you reduce the forces involved, and get more meat to join into...

I'd use chisels, gouges, card scraper and possibly an Iwasaki rasp. But I have luddite tendancies :wink:

Both round and elongated leaves can be found on the same variety. Some types at least will produce round leaves on new growth after cutting back hard, but will have elongated leaves later. All the eucalyptus I have had has been excellent burning wood, and eucalyptus is grown as fuel in lots...

I think the handle and feet was the right choice. Adds some contrast and easy to use one handed. The latch is a clever idea too. And the alder looks good with the Osmo. I hope you've allowed enough time for the turpentine smell to blow off before the bread went in !

I feel I ought to be able to answer this one, but I usually cheat and use a bungee too. The pole is a bit of a pain IMHO; need to be fairly fresh to have the right spring, can't move inside when it rains, can't work on hardstanding, can't use a light portable lathe without the pole tending to...

On the face of it you'd expect that reviver mix to dissolve just about anything. You've got meths to dissolve shellac, turps to dissolve wax and probably much more, vinegar as a mild acid might help with water marks and grease, and ammonia as a base might also saponify oils. But what happens...

I await with interest the answers to this problem ! The hard edges look tricky to hide. I wonder if it was water that caused the mark in the first place, whether something water based might be useful in at least softening the edges. It's not French polish is it ? I've always wanted to try...

I wonder how much iron is needed to cause a problem. Here at work, our water comes through an old cast iron main. If you fill a pint glass, it has a rusty hint to it. I would not be surprised it it were enough to cause a problem. But at least anaemia is unlikely :lol:

Last weekend I finished off this chair. 3 coats of Rustins Danish oil applied by cloth, then a couple of applications of the homemade beeswax polish - 2:2:1 beeswax, natural turpentine and linseed oil. The aroma of turpentine has now faded enough for it to be allowed in the house ! The MAC...

Strange isn't it, that no number of broken limbs is enough to stop rugby or football though ?

I suspect the ash is used for its mechanical properties, just as it is for tool handles. And it rots the metalwork less than oak ! Having said that, I split up an ash log that had been lying in the grass at my allotment for probably 5 years, and it was still pretty sound inside. Maybe it is...